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Tag: nanopxl

HowTo: Electronics – nanoPxl V1.1 soldering SMD components

Posted on 16. October 2020 by Fab

I am currently working on the first preparations for a somewhat larger project. For this I need LEDs which shine a little brighter. At the same time, I didn’t want […]

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Evening project(<2h) / Electronics / PCB Design / pxlBlck / Raspberry Pi / SmartHome / Sticky One comment

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(Anzeige/Ad)⁣ 🇬🇧 For the #Nerdiskerator (

(Anzeige/Ad)⁣
🇬🇧 For the #Nerdiskerator (the disk generator of the first version of #WinDIY) I had built a provisional generator test stand. This was precisely tailored to the dimensions of this generator. So unfortunately it did not fit the new generator for #WinDIY_2. So the last days I built a new generator test stand from 2020 aluminum profiles and 3D printed components made of Tough PLA from @3d_prima. It's not quite finished yet, but I think you can already see how its made. This time the structure is also designed that way that generators of various dimensions can be tested. Both the generator bracket and the bracket of the 250W DC motor can be adjusted in height and in the axial direction. This way future generator models should also be easy to test without having to make major changes to the test stand. 😎 A 24V 400W power supply is installed in the lower area of the test stand. The speed of the DC motor can be adjusted using the PWM controller. 🙂⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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#Nerdiy.de #power #Nerdy #renewableenergy #generator #test #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #physics #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #project #solderingiron #makerlife #motor #electricalengineering #iot #science #mechanics

🇬🇧 I'm slowly getting all the parts for the

🇬🇧 I'm slowly getting all the parts for the generator and the generator test stand from # WinDIY_2 together. So it's time for #knolling again. 🤤 You can see the stator, rotor, bearings, the 20 40x10x10mm #Neodymium magnets (from @supermagnetecom), 500m of copper wire and the first attachments for the generator test stand. I printed the components from Tough PLA from @3d_prima. So the assembly can begin soon. 😎⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇩🇪 So langsam habe ich alle Teile für den Generator und den Generator-Teststand von #WinDIY_2 zusammen. Also wird es mal wieder etwas Zeit für #knolling. 🤤 Zu sehen sind der Stator, Rotor, die Lager, die 20 40x10x10mm #Neodym Magnete (von @supermagnetecom), 500m Kupferdraht und die ersten Anbauteile für den Generator Teststand. Die Bauteile habe ich aus Tough PLA von @3d_prima prima gedruckt. Der Zusammenbau kann also bald beginnen. 😎⁣
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Aktuelle infos gibt es auf @Nerdiy.de ⁣
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(Ad/Anzeige)⁣ 🇬🇧 At the latest under the

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🇬🇧 At the latest under the microscope, the differences in the print resolution become clear. 😬⁣
White: Printed with the FDM printer⁣
Yellow: Printed with the @elegoo Mars 2 Pro⁣
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🇩🇪 Spätestens unter dem Mikroskop werden die Unterschiede in der Druckauflösung deutlich. 😬 ⁣
Weiß: Gedruckt mit dem FDM Drucker⁣
Gelb: Gedruckt mit dem @elegoo Mars 2 Pro⁣
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🇬🇧 Possibly you remember the last constructi

🇬🇧 Possibly you remember the last construction of the pitch actuator for the first version of #WinDIY. At that time I built four versions because after each version I thought that I had now found the perfect design (which of course I didn't have). That's why I want to test the new design more this time before using it in the final design. For this purpose I built a small test setup with which I can test the torque of the pitch actuator. I printed a wheel with a radius of 10cm and attached a rope to it. In order to determine the maximum torque I have attached various weights and determined at which weight the gearbox is blocked. The torque can then be calculated using the weight force of the attached weight. Result: The pitch actuator is strong enough for my application. 😎 But of course every gear also has a final boss. 😌⁣
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🇬🇧 The last time I printed parts with my #El

🇬🇧 The last time I printed parts with my #Elegoo Mars 2 Pro, I simply put the component in the sun to cure it completely. Since the sun doesn't always shine so strong, I built a small UV curing chamber. To do this, I lined an old Tupperware box with some aluminum foil and then glued a UV LED strip with the appropriate wavelength into it. So I can cure the components even on days that are not so sunny. 🙂⁣
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🇩🇪 Das letzte mal als ich mit meinem Elegoo Mars 2 Pro Teile gedruckt habe, habe ich das Bauteil danach einfach in die Sonne gelegt um es komplett auszuhärten. Da die Sonne aber nicht immer so schön scheint habe ich mir eine kleine UV Härtungskammer gebaut. Dazu habe ich eine alte Tupperdose mit etwas Alufolie ausgekleidet und dann einen UV LED Streifen mit der passenden Wellenlänge hineingeklebt. So kann ich auch an den nicht so Sonnenreichen Tagen die Bauteile aushärten. 🙂⁣
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(Anzeige/Ad)⁣ 🇬🇧 The last days my 3D prin

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🇬🇧 The last days my 3D printer is running 24/7. 😎 So I was finally able to test the first parts for the stator for the generator of #WinDIY_2. This time I use a bell-like construction for the generator, which is also known from brushless motors. The stator can be equipped with 12 coils, which are pushed in from behind. At the same time, the axis for the rotor is also integrated in the housing of the stator. The large red ring (in which the ball bearing sits) is already part of the rotor and is ultimately screwed to its housing. Later 10, 20 or, if desired, even 40 magnets (then in Halbach configuration) can be accommodated in the rotor housing. Let's see if it works. 🙂 ⁣
At this point I would also like to thank the people from @3d_prima and @supermagnetecom , who support me at the development and construction with material. 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 After experimenting a bit with the differ

🇬🇧 After experimenting a bit with the different material combinations, it turns out that the combination of FDM printed worm wheel and SLA printed worm works best for the worm gear. The very smooth surfaces of the two SLA printed wheels also work, but the frictional resistance seems to be higher. At least in this case the no-load current of the motor is significantly higher (approx. 180mA) than with the FDM / SLA configuration (approx. 100mA).
The worm gear reduces its number of revolutions in a ratio of 40: 1. The torque increases accordingly, which should be sufficient for my purpose. I will of course do some more testing here. 😎 At this point, many thanks again to the people from @Elegoo without their Mars 2Pro SLA printer, this construction would not have been possible. 🙂

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🇬🇧 Have you ever used the JTAG interface to

🇬🇧 Have you ever used the JTAG interface to debug your Arduino project? So far I've always relied on the good old Arduino-style debugging method: with the help of numerous Serial.print("I'm here"), ... Serial.print("I'm here2") ... you always got to the problem at some point. But now I'm stuck. As firmware for the pxlBlck_multiPCB (which will be the heart of my future pxlBlck projects) I use the ESPEasy Framework including #pxlBlck plugin. Long story short: The plug-in works perfectly on the ESP8266 but unfortunately not on the ESP32 which I installed on the PCB. However, it is practical that, unlike its little brother, the ESP32 also has a JTAG interface. With a suitable JTAG debugger, you can examine the running software live during runtime. For example, variable values can be read out or changed during operation or the program can be executed step by step. @Espressif (the manufacturer of the ESP32) has developed a small debugger that can be used to program and debug the ESP32 via its JTAG interface. Unfortunately I didn't plan a JTAG connector in the PCB layout. But with the help of a couple of Dupont cables, I quickly "retrofitted" them. Let's see if I can find the problem now. 😎

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(Anzeige/Ad) 🇬🇧 Thanks to the support of @el

(Anzeige/Ad)
🇬🇧 Thanks to the support of @elegoo I can now also produce SLA printed components for #WinDIY. A really cool thing about that: thanks to the higher print resolution with the SLA printing process, you can now also print functional threads. In the video you can see the worm wheel for the pitch actuator. I plan to use an M10 screw as the axis. To do this, the screw is first screwed into the worm wheel. The whole gear was printed including the thread. The first threads fit without any further preparation. For the better fit, I only had to cut once through the thread with a thread cutter. A great relief because this way the thread is straight in the component and can no longer cut missaligned. 🙂

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
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🇩🇪 Dank der Unterstützung von @elegoo kann ich nun auch SLA gedruckte Bauteile für #WinDIY anfertigen. Eine echt coole Sache ist, dass man dank der höheren Druckauflösung beim SLA Druckverfahren nun auch funktionale Gewinde direkt mitdrucken kann. In dem Video seht Ihr das Schneckenrad für den Pitch-Aktor. Als Achse plane ich eine M10 Schraube zu verwenden. Dazu wird die Schraube zunächst in das Schneckenrad eingeschraubt. Das Gewinde im Schneckenrad ist dabei beim Druckvorgang mitgedruckt worden. Die ersten Gewindegänge passen ohne weitere Vorbereitung. Für die bessere Passung musste ich nur noch einmal mit dem Gewindeschneider durch das im Prinzip fertige gewinde schneiden. Eine super Erleichterung, weil das Gewinde so auch gerade im Bauteil ist und nicht mehr schief geschnitten werden kann. 🙂

Mehr Infos und detaillierte Anleitungen zu meinen Projekten findet ihr auf NerDIY.de 🤓
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(Anzeige/Ad) 🇬🇧 The work on the second versi

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🇬🇧 The work on the second version of #WinDIY is about to start. I am very happy to anounce that @elegoo has recently also started to support its development with one of their SLA printers. I will use it for the manufacture of the gear parts. Because the worm gear that I planned to control the blade-pitch-angle fails somewhat due to the limitations of thr FDM printing technology. The friction surfaces of the worm wheel and the worm are unfortunately too rough. Even without any load, the gear can only be turned with a lot of effort. In addition, the overhanging structures are ultimately not very detailed. All these issues do not exist in the SLA printing technology. So I've spent the last few days putting the ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro into operation and making the first test prints. You can see the first results in the pictures. 😍 At this point, many thanks again to the Elegoo team for your support. 🙂⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de ⁣
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(Anzeige/Ad)⁣ 🇬🇧 I hope this is still com

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🇬🇧 I hope this is still compliant with the rules when I present the results of the #solderingSunday on the #microscopeMonday? 😌 You can see the assembly and soldering of the WS2812 LEDs on the front of the boards of my still secret project. :)⁣
The boards were provided by @pcbway. 😍⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇩🇪 Ich hoffe das ist noch Regelkonform wenn ich die Ergebnisse des #solderingSunday am #microscopeMonday präsentiere? 😌⁣
Zu sehen ist die Montage der WS2812 LEDs auf der Vorderseite der Platinen meines noch geheimen Projekts. :)⁣
Die Platinen wurden von @pcbway zur Verfügung gestellt. 😍⁣
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Mehr Infos und detaillierte Anleitungen zu meinen Projekten findet ihr auf NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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Anzeige/Ad 🇬🇧 A small first glimpse into my

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🇬🇧 A small first glimpse into my little secret side project. The circuit boards supplied by @pcbway are mostly assembled and fit perfectly into the 3D printed aluminum housing. 😍 I hope you don't see what it should be yet. That's still a secret. 😎

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
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🇩🇪 Ein kleiner erster Einblick in mein kleines geheimes Seitenprojekt. Die von @pcbway gelieferten Platinen sind größtenteils bestückt und passen perfekt in das 3D gedruckte Aluminiumgehäuse. 😍 Ich hoffe man sieht noch nicht was es werden soll. Das ist ja noch geheim. 😎

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🇬🇧 A couple of new boards arrived from @pcbw

🇬🇧 A couple of new boards arrived from @pcbway over the weekend. 😎 Among other things, there was the new version for the pxlBlck_mutliPCB. Now that I knew that all the individual components should work, I (almost) completely assembled the first side of the board. Only the space for the BME280 has remained free because it is currently only available for a fairly high price. I think the bottleneck in chip production is slowly becoming noticeable to me as well. 😩 Luckily I still had all the other components in stock. The ESP32-Wrover B can communicate with the ADXL345 acceleration sensor, the TSL2591 light sensor, the DS3232M RTC and the MPR121 touch sensor IC via the I2C bus. Additionally the MAX98357 Class-D amplifier is connected via I2S, which can, for example, play MP3 files from the connected microSD card or stream audio data directly from the Internet over wifi. Thanks to the CH350G USB2 serial converter, the ESP32 can be programmed directly via the USB-C port. On the other side of the PCB, the 10x10 LED matrix is still waiting to be assembled. But more on that later. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇬🇧 At the moment I spend a large part of my

🇬🇧 At the moment I spend a large part of my free time in various CAD programs to prepare the new upcoming projects. (That's why it's a bit quieter here) Nevertheless, I always need a few small "excursions" into the non-virtual world in between. 🙂 A result of the last few days is this 7.5 "ePaper display, which I had been lying on my desk for a while. I always wanted to use it to display the data from my SmartHome. At first I thought that I will code my own firmware for the #ESP32. In the end I found a cool project with which the content can be shown very easily on the display. I will soon provide information on this as a tutorial on Nerdiy.de. In order to be able to set up or hang up the display reasonably protected I also started to design a suitable housing. All components that are necessary for operation can be installed in it. You can see the first test print in the pictures. 🙂 ⁣
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🇬🇧 After I was able to fix a small error in

🇬🇧 After I was able to fix a small error in the programming circuit, the test of the LED matrix was still pending. For this I soldered the LED matrix of 100 SK6812 3535 LEDs on another board and then connected it to the board on which the ESP32 Wrover is soldered via a connector. Later everything will be installed on one circuit board. 🙃 I have already tested the remaining components on a separate PCB. With the next iteration, the pxlBlck_multiPCB should (hopefully) be error-free. 🙂⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇩🇪 Nachdem ich einen kleinen Fehler in der Programmierschaltung beheben konnte stand nun noch der Test der LED Matrix aus. Dazu habe ich auf einer weiteren Platine die LED Matrix aus 100 SK6812 3535 LEDs verlötet und dann über ein Steckverbinder mit der Platine verbunden auf der der ESP32 Wrover verlötet ist. Später wird dann alles auf einer Platine verbaut. 🙃 Die übrigen Komponenten habe ich bereits auf einem separaren PCB getestet. Mit der nächsten Iteration sollte das pxlBlck_multiPCB also (hoffentlich) Fehlerfrei sein. 🙂⁣
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#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #sk6812 #matrix #neopixel #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #WS2812 #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #esp #project #solderingiron #makerlife #brushless #motor #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #pxlBlck

🇬🇧 For the further development of #WinDIY, I

🇬🇧 For the further development of #WinDIY, I am currently testing various mechanisms for controlling the wings. The rather complex mechanics of the first version should now be a bit more compact, lighter and at the same time more reliable. For this purpose I built a small worm gear with a gear ratio of 1:40. Driven by a gear motor, it should be possible to adjust the angle of attack of the blades by at least 90° in less than a second. At the same time, the worm gear locks the wing in its set position. At least that’s the plan. Unfortunately, with such small gears you slowly reach the limits of the FDM printing technology. That's why I have to see if this mechanism really works reliably enough. 🙂

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
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🇩🇪 Für die Weiterentwivklung von #WinDIY teste ich gerade verschiedene Mechaniken zur Ansteuerung der Flügel. Die ziemlich komplexe Mechanik der ersten Version soll nun etwas kompakter, leichter und gleichzeitig zuverlässiger werden. Dazu habe ich ein kleines Schneckengetriebe mit einem Übersetzungsverhältnis von 1:40 aufgebaut. Angetrieben von einem Getriebemotor sollte sich der Anstellwinkel der Flügel so in weniger als einer Sekunde um mindestens 90° verdrehen lassen. Gleichzeitig arretiert das Schneckengetriebe den Flügel in seiner eingestellten Position. Soweit der Plan. Leider stößt man bei so kleinen Zahnrädern so langsam an die Grenzen des FDM Drucks. Deswegen muss ich mal gucken ob diese Mechanik wirklich zuverlässig genug funktioniert. 🙂

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#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #gear #wormgear #mechanics #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #WinDIY #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #esp #project #solderingiron #makerlife #brushless #motor #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #mechanicalengineering #gearporn

🇬🇧 For one of my secret projects, I need a 3

🇬🇧 For one of my secret projects, I need a 3D printed part that is unfortunately too big for my 3D printer. With a width of 270mm, it unfortunately does not fit on the print bed of my Ender5. Conveniently, @PCBWay now also has a prototype service that can also be used to order 3D printable parts. You can choose between different materials and printing technologies. Among other things, parts made of metals such as aluminum can also be manufactured in this way. That's exactly what I tried out. The result is visible on the pictures. The component is of course much more stable than if it were printed from plastic. In addition, looks much more "worthy" than components made of plastic. I can already imagine some areas of application. For example, you could also print heat sinks or parts that require greater strength than plastic. Do you have any other ideas what could be made with it? 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 The last few days it has been a little qu

🇬🇧 The last few days it has been a little quieter here because I was drowning in work. But this also lead to the first success in one of my secret projects. You can see the result in the picture. I have long been enthusiastic about the possibilities of magnetic levitation. This allows objects to float in the air using a magnetic field. All that is needed is a couple of magnets and one to four coils of an electromagnet. These can then be regulated so that magnetic objects can "stand" on the resulting magnetic field. But what works on a small scale must also work on a large scale. That's why I scaled up the typical structure a bit. The aim was to be able to hover or lift larger objects. With the current structure, objects up to approx. 100kg can be lifted and held at a certain height. With appropriately prepared socks (including metal inserts), you can stand on the resulting magnetic field and float on it. I am curious what is still possible with it. For example, I could imagine this technology as an alternative to the classic car jack. What other areas of application can you imagine? 🙂

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🇬🇧 Today I installed the pressure sensor for

🇬🇧 Today I installed the pressure sensor for the second tip of my #pcknplc machine. It struck me that the silicone hose, which is not very dimensionally stable, is about to kink at this bending radius and thus pinch itself off. To prevent this from happening, I wrapped both silicone hoses with an untwisted tension spring. This way the hoses are supported but still flexible enough to be connected to the pressure sensors. The pressure sensors are mounted on an adapter board from which the signals are then passed on to the controller board. 🙃⁣
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🇩🇪 Heute habe ich den Drucksensor für die zweite Spitze meiner #pcknplc Maschine montiert. Dabei ist mir aufgefallen, dass der recht wenig Formstabile Silikonschlauch bei diesem Biegeradius kurz davor ist abzuknicken und sich damit selbst abzuklemmen. Um dies zu verhindern habe ich beide Silikonschläuche mit einer aufgedrehten Zugfeder umwickelt. So werden die Schläuche gestützt bleiben aber trotzdem biegsam genug um sie an den Drucksensoren anzuschließen. Die Drucksensoren sind auf einem Adapterboard montiert von welchem die Signale dann an das Controllerboard weitergeleitet werden. 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 When I designed the adapter board for the

🇬🇧 When I designed the adapter board for the XGZP6847 pressure sensors, I integrated two options to evaluate the analog voltages of the pressure sensors. With the help of a solder jumper, you can choose whether the signals from the sensors are routed directly to the connector or to an ADS1115 I2C ADC soldered to the adapter board. In the latter case, the I2C bus is routed to the contacts of the connector. You can choose whether you want to evaluate the sensor signals analog or digital (via I2C). So that I can now also test the readout with the aid of the ADS1115, I have set up the circuit board shown including the ADS1115. 🙂 The PCB is made by @pcbway 😍

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🇩🇪 Als ich das Adapter Board für die XGZP6847 Drucksensoren erstellt habe, habe ich zwei Optionen integriert um die analogen Spannungen der Drucksensoren auszuwerten. Mithilfe eines Lötjumpers kann man auswählen ob die Signale der Sensoren direkt auf den Anschlussstecker geleitet werden, oder zu einem auf dem Adapterbaord verlöteten ADS1115 I2C ADC. Im letzten Fall wird der I2C Bus auf die Leitungen des Anschlussstecker gelegt. Man hat also die Auswahlmöglichkeit ob man die Sensorsignale analog oder digital (über I2C) auswerten möchte. Damit ich das auslesen mithilfe des ADS1115 nun auch testen kann, habe ich die gezeigte Platine inkl. ADS1115 aufgebaut. 🙂

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🇬🇧 One of the somewhat delayed results of th

🇬🇧 One of the somewhat delayed results of the #solderingsunday: I finally got around to finish the controller of the #servoDigit clock again. The remaining parts were soldered. Including the pin headers for up to 32 SG90 servos. Actually only 28 (seven per digit) are needed to operate the four digits, but 16 PWM outputs are available per PCA9685 and it was no problem to accommodate the remaining four connections on the PCB. 🙃 Now programming and testing is on the to-do list. 🙂⁣
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🇩🇪 Eins der etwas verspäteten Ergebnisse des #solderingsunday : Endlich kam ich dazu mal wieder an dem Controller der #servoDigit Uhr weiter zu bauen. Die restlichen Teile wurden verlötet. Darunter auch die Pinheader für bis zu 32 SG90 Servos. Zum Betrieb der vier Ziffern werden eigentlich nur 28 (sieben pro Ziffer) benötigt, aber pro PCA9685 stehen 16 PWM Ausgänge zur Verfügung und es war kein Problem auch die übrigen vier Anschlüsse auf dem PCB unter zu bringen. 🙃 Nun steht das programmieren und testen auf der ToDo Liste. 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 Here you can see the modifications of the

🇬🇧 Here you can see the modifications of the Z-axis of my #pcknplc machine. I had the problem that the Z-axis stepper motor did not have enough power to pick up the tips (see previous posts) and snap them into the holder. After I swapped the stepper motor, turned the driver up to the maximum possible current and even changed the Rs resistance on the driver, I was a bit lost. Ultimately, however, I was able to increase the strength by exchanging the 20 tooth motor pulley for a 12 tooth pulley. I also swapped the tension spring for tensioning the toothed belt with a 3D printed tensioner. So I was able to remove the resilient element from the belt. 🙂 The combination of both changes has now resulted in the Z-axis motor having enough power to pick the tips. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Hier seht Ihr die Modifikationen an der Z-Achse meine #pcknplc Maschine. Ich hatte nämlich das Problem, dass der Z-Achsen Schrittmotor nicht genug Kraft hatte um die Spitzen aufzunehmen (siehe vorherige Posts) und in die Halterung einrasten zu lassen. Nachdem ich den Schrittmotor getauscht, den Treiber auf den maximal möglichen Strom aufgedreht und dazu sogar extra den Rs Widerstand auf dem Treiber geändert hatte war ich etwas ratlos. Letztlich konnte ich die Kraft aber erhöhen indem ich zum einen das 20 Zahn Motorpulley gegen ein 12 Zahn Pulley getauscht habe. Außerdem habe ich die Spannfeder zum Spannen des Zahnriemens gegen einen 3D gedruckten Spanner getauscht. So konnte ich das federnde Element aus dem Riemen entfernen. 🙂 Die Kombination aus beiden Änderungen hat nun bewirkt, dass der Z-Achsen Motor genug Kraft hat um die Spitzen aufzunehmen. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 I wasn't in the mood the last days to wor

🇬🇧 I wasn't in the mood the last days to work on the #pcknplc machine but decided to work on the automatic tip changing today. These can be changed by defining four positions. As soon as a change is necessary, these are approached one after the other and the this way the desired tip is mounted on the pick head. 🙃 This way, the machine can change the appropriate tip depending on the component size and then pick up the component it should place on thr PCB. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Nachdem ich die letzten Tag etwas weniger Lust hatte an der #pcknplc Maschine zu arbeiten, habe ich mich heute mal etwas mit dem automatischen wechsel der Tips beschäftigt. Diese können gewechselt werden indem vier Positionen definiert werden. Sobald ein Wechsel nötig ist werden diese nacheinander angefahren und so die gewünschte Tip aufgenommen. 🙃 So kann die Maschine je nach Bauteilgröße die passende Tip wechseln und dann das Bauteil aufnehmen. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 For one of the secret projects I'm curren

🇬🇧 For one of the secret projects I'm currently working on, some really tricky solder joints had to be made. You are immediately pleased that you do not normally have to connect SMD components with wire bridges. 😂 So for the project there will be two ways to get complete it: One way involves a lot of fiddly soldering points. The other is a PCB on which all components are already installed. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Für eins der geheimen Projekte an dem ich gerade arbeite mussten ein paar wirklich kniffelige Lötverbindungen hergestellt werden. Da freut man sich direkt, dass man SMD Komponenten normalerweise nicht per Drahtbrücken verbinden muss. 😂 Für das Projekt wird es also zwei Wege zum Ziel geben: Der eine Weg beinhaltet ziemlich viele fummelige Lötstellen. Der andere ein PCB auf der bereits alle Komponenten vorhanden sind. 😎⁣
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Nerdiy

🧑‍🔧Me: Full time nerd in a world with too many projects for too little time
⬇️Here: Regular updates about my DIY projects
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After experimenting a bit with the different material combinations, it turns out that the combination of FDM printed worm wheel and SLA printed worm works best for the worm gear. The very smooth surfaces of the two SLA printed wheels also work, but the frictional resistance seems to be higher. At least in this case the no-load current of the motor is significantly higher (approx. 180mA) than with the FDM / SLA configuration (approx. 100mA).
The worm gear reduces its number of revolutions in a ratio of 40: 1. The torque increases accordingly, which should be sufficient for my purpose. I will of course do some more testing here. 😎 At this point, many thanks again to the people from @Elegoo without their Mars 2Pro SLA printer, this construction would not have been possible. 🙂

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First test of the 3d printed worm gear for WinDIY_2 - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_nh3kvne9L6o

I hope this is still compliant with the rules when I present the results of the #solderingSunday on the #microscopeMonday? 😌 You can see the assembly and soldering of the WS2812 LEDs on the front of the boards of my still secret project. :)⁣
The boards were provided by @pcbway. 😍⁣
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Some reflow soldering action on the PCB of my secret project - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_-j-aAnoSS1E

After I was able to fix a small error in the programming circuit, the test of the LED matrix was still pending. For this I soldered the LED matrix of 100 SK6812 3535 LEDs on another board and then connected it to the board on which the ESP32 Wrover is soldered via a connector. Later everything will be installed on one circuit board. 🙃 I have already tested the remaining components on a separate PCB. With the next iteration, the pxlBlck_multiPCB should (hopefully) be error-free. 🙂⁣
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First test of the 10x10 WS2812 LED-Matrix of my new pxlBlck_PCB - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_eazPh7dQsbs

I wasn't in the mood the last days to work on the #pcknplc machine but decided to work on the automatic tip changing today. These can be changed by defining four positions. As soon as a change is necessary, these are approached one after the other and the this way the desired tip is mounted on the pick head. 🙃 This way, the machine can change the appropriate tip depending on the component size and then pick up the component it should place on thr PCB. 😎⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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First try of the automatic tip change of my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_YfXAucYReh8

(... Continuation of my previous post) So the stepper motor still didn't have enough torque. No problem, I thought, a little more motor current should fix this. So I turned the potentiometer for setting the motor current on the A4988 stepper motor driver to the maximum position. The reference voltage "Vref" is set with this potentiometer. In combination with the resistor "Rs" built into the stepper motor driver (and the now set reference voltage Vref = 0.8V), the following motor current results according to the data sheet of the driver: Imtr = Vref / (8 * Rs) At this point I also noticed that the value 0.1Ohm was installed on the stepper motor for the "Rs" resistor. Sufficient for most stepper motors. Unfortunately I wanted to run my newly installed stepper motor with its maximum current of 1.7A. With this "Rs" value, however, a maximum of only 1A can be set. In order to extend the setting range for the motor current up to 2A, for example, the value for Rs must decrease to 0.05Ohm. Usually not a problem. Unfortunately I didn't have the 0402 SMD resistor there. But: I had an old defective motor driver with the same values. So if I were to unsolder the Rs from the defective motor driver and solder it in parallel to the Rs in the intact motor driver, the total resistance of the two Rs connected in parallel would have to reduce to 0.05Ohm. That's the plan. You can see the conversion in the video. And why that should still not lead me to my goal, you will see in the next post. 🙂 ⁣
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Reducing the Rs resistor on the A4988 stepper driver

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_goC266XXRc0

This section of the pxlBlck_multiPCB is literally self-explaining. 😂 A large part of the new functionality is now running. I was very curious about the MAX98357 I2S Class D amplifier. This is connected to the ESP32 via I2S. MP3s can be played from the inserted micro SD card, web radio can be streamed or text can be read aloud. The goal is that the pxlBlcks will soon also be able to play audio data. For example, you could be informed acoustically about events in the SmartHome. Alternatively, you could also play a web radio stream in this way. 🙃⁣ The PCB is made by @pcbway. 😍
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Test of the MAX98357 on the pxlBlck_multiPCB - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_JmERTyVB5D0

Complete build guide available here: https://nerdiy.de/en/howto-pxlblck-pxlblck_cassettelamp-aufbauen/

In the last few days I have finished the article for the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp. This lamp is a little homage to the time when music was not on a 512GB micro SD card but in the form of audio cassettes. I thought it was a shame to let the cassettes gather dust in a box in the basement and made a small decorative lamp out of them. With the help of a few # WS2812 LEDs, an ESP8266 and an old USB power supply unit, the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp can be built. With the help of the #pxlBlck plug-in, the lamp also gets a few SmartHome functions and can thus also inform about events in your SmartHome. In addition to the setting options via WiFi, the lamp can also be adjusted with the help of a pen - just as the cassette tape salad used to be wound up. You can find the build instructions including a list of needed materials and detailed pictures on my blog at Nerdiy.de. 🙃

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pxlBlck_CassetteLamp by Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_7clz58zdGsM

Here is a short summary of the structure of the bracket for the new controller board of my #pcknplc machine. The board is mounted on the base plate using a 3D printed bracket, official_ruthex threaded inserts and a few screws. 🙃

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Assemby of 3D printed mount frame for BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLl9zXzBtX2VabWxZ

In the meantime I have finished the holder for the tips of the #pcknplc machine. There is space for up to eight tips. Each individual tip is pulled into the correct end position by a small magnet. I've tried different versions and especially experimented with the distance between the magnets and the tips. There should be enough force on the tips to pull them into the correct position. At the same time, they should not be magnetized too much. In this way, I want to avoid that the potentially magnetized tips will attract components when they are not supposed to. 🙃 The holder is required later - depending on the component size - to automatically attach the correct tip to the pick head. 🙃⁣
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Nozzle holder for my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_4RfYagkcU9Q

It doesn't look like much, but it was quite a bit of work. 😂 The controller boards I have used so far are all based on the Marlin firmware. The controller board of my #pcknplc machine is based on the smoothieware. The latter uses a completely different concept for configuration. A couple of timing belts have suffered a bit, but now it's moving. 😍 🙃

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Pick and place machine first moves - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_G5XywlZgmvs

In the last few days I fixed a few bugs in the #pxlBlck plugin. Now the TV simulator dial is working properly. This simulates the typical flickering of a television and can be activated, for example, when nobody is at home. With a little distance, the resulting flickering looks from the outside, viewed through a window, as if someone inside is watching TV. I implemented a code from @adafruit in such a way that it also runs in a "non blocking way" on the ESP. The color information comes from the "Color lines" of Disney films. 🙃⁣
In addition to this change, the RGBW handling has also been improved. Now RGBW Leds aka SK6812 are supported properly. Therefore the color menu has also been revised a bit. In addition, you can now switch between a twelve- and 24-hour mode for some dials. I hope you like the new features. 🙃⁣
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pxlBlck plugin now comes with a TV simulator - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_n69maIjxk08

Maybe you know those walls that don't hold any dowels. At least not if it has to hold more than its own weight in the wall. So I didn't want to drill new holes in the wall to hang up my new workbench lamp. Practically, a shelf hung exactly where the lamp should hang, which is secured in the wall with concrete anchors and should also bear the additional weight of the lamp. But since I didn't want to damage the shelf either, I designed a clamp bracket and 3D printed it. Held together by threaded inserts and four M4 screws, the bracket can be clamped onto the shelf and the lamp hooked into it. 🙃⁣
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3D printed mount for my workbench light - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLkRrY2xXYnFhbVpr

Assembling the camera unit including LED ring for my #pcknplc machine. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de⁣ on instagram
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#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #smd #threadedinsert #mechanicalengineering #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #camera #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #esp #project #solderingiron #makerlife #brushless #motor #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #picknplace

Assembly of the camera module for my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_1tj51nKDxeo

Short preview of the assembly of the #pxlBlck_10x10mini. I changed the design of the case so that it is easy to assemble and is held together with just one M2 screw threaded insert. Due to the higher resolution, even more clock faces can be shown on this display than on the pxlBlck_8x8. Scrolling texts, icons and the familiar animations also work on the display, of course. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de on instagram

#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #mechanicalengineering #threadedinsert #mechanics #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #led #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #project #solderingiron #makerlife #smd #physics #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #pxlblck #retro #digitalart

First preview of the pxlBlck_10x10mini - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLnZoMzl4WnhSRm5r

It doesn't look like much, but it was quite a bit of work. 😂 The controller boards I have used so far are all based on the Marlin firmware. The controller board of my #pcknplc machine is based on the smoothieware. The latter uses a completely different concept for configuration. A couple of timing belts have suffered a bit, but now it's moving. 😍 🙃

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de

#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #smd #threadedinsert #automation #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #mechanics #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #esp #project #solderingiron #makerlife #mechanicalengineering #motor #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #picknplace

First movements of my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_3oGhksuGuu0

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