{"id":2517,"date":"2019-02-27T18:40:04","date_gmt":"2019-02-27T17:40:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nerdiy.de\/?p=2517"},"modified":"2019-08-02T06:27:18","modified_gmt":"2019-08-02T04:27:18","slug":"build-a-retro-smarthome-display-via-analogue-displays-yourself","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/build-a-retro-smarthome-display-via-analogue-displays-yourself\/","title":{"rendered":"HowTo: Build your own retro SmartHome display via analogue displays"},"content":{"rendered":"

While cleaning out the cellar the other day, I found an old control panel with old analog displays. This gave me the idea that it must be possible to use these displays somehow to display data from the SmartHome.<\/p>\n

These displays should be particularly useful for displaying current climate data such as temperature, humidity, etc.<\/p>\n

How to do this and what you need to bear in mind is described in the following article.<\/p>\n

\n

Safety instructions <\/span><\/h2>\r\n

I know the following notes are always kind of annoying and seem unnecessary. Unfortunately, many people who knew "better" have lost eyes, fingers or other things due to carelessness or injured themselves. Data loss is almost negligible in comparison, but even these can be really annoying. Therefore, please take five minutes to read the safety instructions. Because even the coolest project is not worth injury or other trouble.<\/span>
https:\/\/www.nerdiy.de\/sicherheitshinweise\/<\/span><\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\r\n

Affiliate links\/advertising links<\/h2>\r\n

The links to online shops listed here are so-called affiliate links. If you click on such an affiliate link and make a purchase via this link, Nerdiy.de will receive a commission from the relevant online shop or provider. The price does not change for you. If you make your purchases via these links, you support Nerdiy.de in being able to offer other useful projects in the future. \ud83d\ude42\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Requirements<\/h2>\n

Helpful articles:
\n<\/strong>Before you start with this article, you should have dealt with the basics of soldering. You can find information about this in the following article.
\nElectronics - My friend the soldering iron<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Required material:<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the following list you will find all the parts you need to implement this article.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n <\/colgroup>\n <\/table>\n \n \n \n<\/div>\n\n

Required tool:<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the following list you will find all the tools you need to implement this article.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n <\/colgroup>\n <\/table>\n \n \n \n<\/div>\n\n
\n

Collect required parts<\/h2>\n

In the following picture you can see the parts you need to build your own retro SmartHome display.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

Print the 3D parts you need<\/h2>\n

Download all the required STL files: Build your own retro SmartHome display using analog displays<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

In the section More than two displays in one housing<\/strong>\u00a0you will also find templates for modular housing parts.<\/p>\n

Housing for a display: <\/strong><\/p>\n

You can rotate the 3D view of the STL file by holding down the mouse button. You can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel.<\/p>\n

Housing for two displays:<\/strong><\/p>\n

You can rotate the 3D view of the STL file by holding down the mouse button. You can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel.<\/p>\n

\n

Attaching the alternative display scale labeling<\/h2>\n

In this step, the alternative labels for the display scales are glued on. After all, you don't want to use the analog displays to show voltages but other values such as temperatures, humidity, etc.. To do this, the scales need to be adapted slightly.<\/p>\n

In the following pdf file you will find templates for temperature (inside and outside), humidity (inside and outside), air pressure, hour and minute in German and English. Simply print these out and stick them on the scales of the analog displays as described below. Printable label paper is best suited for this, as it already has an adhesive layer on one side.<\/p>\n

Downloads: scale-lettering.pdf<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, loosen the screws in the front cover...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and take everything apart until you can remove the thin scale plate. Be careful not to bend or otherwise damage the sensitive pointer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Once you have cut out the alternative display scale lettering of your choice, you can glue it onto the previously removed scale plate. You should work very cleanly here, as this scale plate and the alternative display scale lettering can (and should) be clearly visible later.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Once you have glued the alternative display scale lettering onto the scale plate, it should look something like this.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You can now insert the glued scale plate back into the analog displays and assemble them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Attaching the backlight<\/h2>\n

LED backlighting is installed so that you can also illuminate the displays later in the dark.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, you must first remove any existing obstacles. You have to get to the back of the scale surface.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
First drill a small hole with a diameter of approx. 3 mm relatively centrally. When drilling, make sure that you do not damage the scale plate on the front when piercing the hole.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You can then drill the small hole to the desired size using a 6 mm drill bit.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now you can use one of the WS2812 LEDs that you have purchased or prepared with cable.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...into the drilled hole as shown.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
That's it with the installation of the backlight. Reassemble the display...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
and installs it in the housing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
To do this, the display is pushed into the housing opening from the front. You can then fix the display on the inside with nuts.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Repeat this with the second display, on which you have of course already stuck the new scale label.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You can then attach the backlight to the second display.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Remove any existing obstacles again...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and drill a sufficiently large hole again as for the previous display.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now glue the remaining WS2812 LED in there...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and reassemble the display.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Prepare connecting cables<\/h2>\n

In order to be able to control the pointer deflection of the analog displays later, they must of course be connected to a voltage source. The connection cables are prepared for this in this step.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, cut off four pieces of wire about ten centimetres long and insulate the ends by about two centimetres.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Tins the ends of the cables...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and bend the tinned ends into rings. This is best done with round nose pliers. The diameter should be at least four mm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The other end of the cables must then be stripped of approx. five mm of insulation and tinned.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The two blue wires can then be connected. They are connected to the \"negative pole\" of the analog display.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The \"negative pole\" of this analogue display can be recognized by the \"minus\" next to the connection screw. To connect the cable there, you first place a washer on the cable...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...then the previously bent cable...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...then another washer....<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and a spring washer over the connection screw.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
This whole \"package\" can then be fixed with a nut.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You should tighten these \"hand-tight\". Bear in mind here: After \"tight\" comes \"off.\" \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Repeat this for the other \"negative pole\".<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You can then connect the remaining \"plus poles\" of the analog displays to the other lines.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The connected cables must now be connected to the PCA9685 breakout board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
To do this, first tin the \"GND\" contact (on the photo at the top left corner of the PCA9685 breakout board) and the upper contacts of the \"1\" and \"2\" connection rows (on the photo in the bottom left area).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
At the same time, you can also tin the \"GND\", \"SCL\", SDA\", \"VCC\" and \"V+\" contacts on the opposite side of the PCA9685 breakout board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You can then connect the connecting cables to the PCA9685 breakout board as shown. The (common) \"negative pole\" (here the blue wire) is connected to the \"GND\" contact of the PCA9685 breakout board. The \"positive poles\" of the analog displays are connected to the prepared contacts of \"1\" and \"2\".<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The connected PCA9685 breakout board should (so far) look something like this.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
In order for the PCA9685 breakout board to work, it must now be connected to the power supply - just like the WS2812 LEDs. To do this, prepare a common supply line for the LEDs and the PCA9685 breakout board. To do this, strip approx. ten mm of insulation from the individual wires of the WS2812 LED supply line.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
You also prepare two wires, stripping ten mm from one end and five mm from the other.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now twist the ten mm stripped ends with the WS2812 LED leads as shown and tin them with a little solder. You should already pay attention to which wire of the WS2812 LEDs is the \"5V\" wire. In this case, it is the wire that is connected to the red wire.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
This should then look something like this.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now solder the \"5V\" line to the \"VCC\" contact of the PCA9685 breakout board...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Close-up of the soldered cable on the PCA9685 breakout board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The other wire of the supply line is then soldered to the \"GND\" contact on the PCA9685 breakout board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Connecting the ESP8266 adapter board<\/h2>\n

The now prepared cables must of course still be connected to the heart - the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, the contacts must first be prepared.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Tin the contacts \"5V\", \"G\", \"D4\", \"D2\", \"D1\" and \"3V3\" - as shown in the illustration.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Then you can connect the \"plus\" line (on the photo the red and red\/transparent line) to the \"5V\" contact of the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now repeat this with the \"minus\" line (the blue and transparent line in the photo). Connect this to the \"GND\" contact of the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
To connect the WS2812 LEDs completely, you must now connect the data line (the last remaining one coming from the WS2812 LEDs) to contact \"D4\".<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now prepare another three five to ten cm long pieces of wire by stripping approx. 5mm of the wire ends and tinning them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The first of these three lines is used to supply the PCA9685 breakout board with 3.3V from the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Solder the cable to the \"VCC\" contact of the PCA9685 breakout board...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and the other end to the \"3.3V\" contact of the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The next line to be attached connects the bus line \"SCL\" between the PCA9685 breakout board and the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Solder the cable to the \"SCL\" contact of the PCA9685 breakout board...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and the other end to contact \"D1\" of the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The last line (after which you are finished with the soldering work) connects the \"SDA\" bus line between the PCA9685 breakout board and the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Solder the cable to the \"SDA\" contact of the PCA9685 breakout board and the other end to the \"D2\" contact of the ESP8266 adapter board.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
That's it for the soldering work \ud83d\ude42 Your setup should now look something like this.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now you can \"stow away\" the electronics.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Glue the PCA9685 breakout board with some hot glue in the middle between the analog displays as shown...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and the ESP8266 adapter board next to it as shown. Note that the USB port of the ESP8266 adapter board must remain easily accessible because it is programmed and supplied with power via this port.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
And that's it for assembling the required hardware \ud83d\ude42<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Other variants<\/h2>\n

The great thing about the PCA9685 breakout board is that it offers up to 16 outputs. This means you can connect up to 16 displays.<\/p>\n

A 3D printer is sufficient to produce a housing for one or two analog displays. Unfortunately, most 3D printers are too small for more than two displays. One way of combining several displays is described in the section More than two displays in one housing<\/strong> described below.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Case version with only one analog display.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
If you want to use more than two displays, you can also make a wooden housing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

More than two displays in one housing<\/h2>\n

...are difficult to realize in the way described above. At the very least, it is very difficult to print a housing with space for more than two displays using a 3D printer. Most 3D printers simply do not have enough space on their print bed for this.<\/p>\n

At least if you want to print the housing in one part, this does not work. In case you have no problem with screwing the housing together from several parts, here is a suggestion on how the whole thing can still be realized. Unfortunately, there are currently no pictures with step-by-step instructions. I will add these here as soon as possible.<\/del><\/p>\n

However, you can still get a very good idea of the assembly using the 3D templates. For those who still want to try it out:<\/del><\/p>\n

A few pictures explaining the assembly can be found after viewing the required 3D files.<\/p>\n

Download the required STL files: Retro SmartHome display modular housing<\/strong><\/em><\/a><\/span><\/p>\n

Center section of the modular housing: <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

You can rotate the 3D view of the STL file by holding down the mouse button. You can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel.<\/p><\/span><\/p>\n

End part of the modular housing: <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

You can rotate the 3D view of the STL file by holding down the mouse button. You can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel.<\/p><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To assemble an enclosure with two elements, for example, you need 12x screws (e.g. M4x16) and 12 nuts. Add four for each additional element.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The housing parts are then simply screwed together.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
In this way, an infinite number of analog displays can - theoretically - be accommodated in one housing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Detailed view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Detailed view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Detailed view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Detailed view of the front including analog displays.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The gap dimensions and quality of the housing also depend heavily on the print quality of your 3D printer.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Detailed view of the complete housing.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Flash firmware<\/h2>\n

Now it is time to transfer the firmware to the display.<\/p>\n

To do this, program the ESPEasy firmware including the \"Nerdiys-PanelMeter\" plug-in on the ESP9266 adapter board. How to do this is explained in the following article: ESPEasy - Install and configure the NerdiysPanelMeter plug-in<\/strong><\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

\n

Have fun with the project<\/h2>\r\n

I hope everything worked as described for you. If not or you have questions or suggestions please let me know in the comments. I will then add this to the article if necessary.
Ideas for new projects are always welcome. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\r\n

PS Many of these projects - especially the hardware projects - cost a lot of time and money. Of course I do this because I enjoy it, but if you think it's cool that I share the information with you, I would be happy about a small donation to the coffee fund. \ud83d\ude42<\/strong><\/p>\r\n

\"Buy<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Recently, while cleaning out the basement, I found an old control panel with old analog displays. This gave me the idea that you have to be able to use these displays somehow [...].<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3185,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[91,56,86,146,61,148],"tags":[92,27,29,33,82,139,50,51],"class_list":["post-2517","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-3d-druck","category-arduino","category-elektronik","category-esp-easy","category-smarthome","category-tagesprojekt5h","tag-3d-druck","tag-aktoren","tag-arduino","tag-automatisierung","tag-esp8266","tag-retro","tag-sensoren","tag-smarthome"],"yoast_head":"\nHowTo: Retro-SmartHome-Display via Analog-Anzeigen selber bauen - 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Damit ist es Euch\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Elektronik"","block_context":{"text":"Elektronik","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/electronics\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-espeasy-nerdiyspanelmeter-plugin-installieren-und-konfigurieren-firefox-2019-05-26-21-31-58.png?fit=1200%2C480&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-espeasy-nerdiyspanelmeter-plugin-installieren-und-konfigurieren-firefox-2019-05-26-21-31-58.png?fit=1200%2C480&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-espeasy-nerdiyspanelmeter-plugin-installieren-und-konfigurieren-firefox-2019-05-26-21-31-58.png?fit=1200%2C480&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-espeasy-nerdiyspanelmeter-plugin-installieren-und-konfigurieren-firefox-2019-05-26-21-31-58.png?fit=1200%2C480&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/05\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-espeasy-nerdiyspanelmeter-plugin-installieren-und-konfigurieren-firefox-2019-05-26-21-31-58.png?fit=1200%2C480&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":16917,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/news-june-2021-my-projects-for-the-hackadayprize-2021\/","url_meta":{"origin":2517,"position":1},"title":"News: June 2021 - My projects for the HackadayPrize 2021","author":"Fab","date":"3. 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Ich hatte bereits in den Kommentaren unter dem Artikel zum HackadayPrize gelesen, dass die Fristen\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "3D-Druck"","block_context":{"text":"3D-Druck","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/3d-printing\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-news-meine-projekte-fuer-den-hackadayprize-2021-dsc01817-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-news-meine-projekte-fuer-den-hackadayprize-2021-dsc01817-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-news-meine-projekte-fuer-den-hackadayprize-2021-dsc01817-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-news-meine-projekte-fuer-den-hackadayprize-2021-dsc01817-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-news-meine-projekte-fuer-den-hackadayprize-2021-dsc01817-scaled.jpg?fit=1200%2C800&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":6124,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/howto-nodered-nerdiys-supply-panelmeter-with-weather-data\/","url_meta":{"origin":2517,"position":2},"title":"HowTo: Node Red \u2013 Supply Nerdiys PanelMeter with weather data","author":"Fab","date":"3. June 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"In den Artikeln Retro-SmartHome-Display via Analog-Anzeigen selber bauen und ESPEasy - NerdiysPanelMeter-Plugin installieren und konfigurieren \u00a0wurde beschrieben was Ihr tun m\u00fcsst um ein eigenes Retro-SmartHome-Display zu bauen. Wenn nu alles funktioniert seid Ihr schon mal auf einem guten Weg. Damit Eure Anzeige aber jetzt so richtig n\u00fctzlich wird, m\u00fcsst Ihr\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-nodered-nerdiys-panelmeter-mit-wetterdaten-versorgen-chrome-2019-06-03-15-00-09.png?fit=871%2C274&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-nodered-nerdiys-panelmeter-mit-wetterdaten-versorgen-chrome-2019-06-03-15-00-09.png?fit=871%2C274&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-nodered-nerdiys-panelmeter-mit-wetterdaten-versorgen-chrome-2019-06-03-15-00-09.png?fit=871%2C274&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/06\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-nodered-nerdiys-panelmeter-mit-wetterdaten-versorgen-chrome-2019-06-03-15-00-09.png?fit=871%2C274&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2447,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/build-your-own-opensource-smarthome-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":2517,"position":3},"title":"Build your own OpenSource SmartHome","author":"Fab","date":"28. February 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Ich muss zugeben ich habe noch nicht die perfekte L\u00f6sung gefunden um alle SmartHome-relevanten Artikel \u00fcbersichtlich aufzulisten. Um bis dahin zumindest etwas \u00dcbersicht in die verf\u00fcgbaren SmartHome-Artikel zu bringen kommt hier die folgende Liste mit allen aktuell verf\u00fcgbaren und teilweise geplanten Artikeln. :) Allgemein\/Diverses NodeRed \u2013 Installation von NodeRed auf\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":13540,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/howto-pxlblck-automatic-adjustment-of-the-display-brightness-via-ldr\/","url_meta":{"origin":2517,"position":4},"title":"HowTo: pxlBlck \u2013 Automatic adjustment of the display brightness via LDR","author":"Fab","date":"12. December 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Wenn Ihr mit Eurem pxlBlck nicht nur \u00fcber Ereignisse informiert bleiben wollt und ihn auch dazu nutzt die aktuelle Uhrzeit anzuzeigen, dann ist Euch vllt. schon aufgefallen, dass eine fest eingestellte Display-Helligkeit nicht immer passt. Gerade wenn Ihr Euren pxlBlck in der N\u00e4he eines Fensters stehen habt m\u00fcsst Ihr die\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-pxlblck-automatische-einstellung-der-displayhelligkeit-via-ldr-firefox-rmx2ddvhxe.jpg?fit=1001%2C642&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-pxlblck-automatische-einstellung-der-displayhelligkeit-via-ldr-firefox-rmx2ddvhxe.jpg?fit=1001%2C642&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-pxlblck-automatische-einstellung-der-displayhelligkeit-via-ldr-firefox-rmx2ddvhxe.jpg?fit=1001%2C642&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-pxlblck-automatische-einstellung-der-displayhelligkeit-via-ldr-firefox-rmx2ddvhxe.jpg?fit=1001%2C642&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":19275,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-show-overview-of-the-raspberry-pi-in-the-console\/","url_meta":{"origin":2517,"position":5},"title":"HowTo: Raspberry Pi - Show GPIO overview of the Raspberry Pi in the console","author":"Fab","date":"5. February 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Der Raspberry Pi ist f\u00fcr viele seiner Eigenschaften ber\u00fchmt. Da ist zum einen die Gr\u00f6\u00dfe, Leistung und (zu Zeiten ohne Bauteilknappheit) auch der Preis der f\u00fcr so ein kleines praktisches Ger\u00e4t wirklich beeindruckend ist. Als \"Bastelcomputer\" ist er vor allem deswegen ber\u00fchmt geworden, weil externe Hardware direkt \u00fcber seine GPIO\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-uebersicht-des-raspberry-pi-anzeigen-windowsterminal-kikfpbyndu.jpg?fit=1200%2C618&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-uebersicht-des-raspberry-pi-anzeigen-windowsterminal-kikfpbyndu.jpg?fit=1200%2C618&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-uebersicht-des-raspberry-pi-anzeigen-windowsterminal-kikfpbyndu.jpg?fit=1200%2C618&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-uebersicht-des-raspberry-pi-anzeigen-windowsterminal-kikfpbyndu.jpg?fit=1200%2C618&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/www.nerdiy.de-howto-raspberry-pi-gpio-uebersicht-des-raspberry-pi-anzeigen-windowsterminal-kikfpbyndu.jpg?fit=1200%2C618&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2517","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2517"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2517\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3185"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2517"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2517"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2517"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}