{"id":3480,"date":"2019-02-23T23:38:02","date_gmt":"2019-02-23T22:38:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nerdiy.de\/?p=3480"},"modified":"2019-07-22T06:51:16","modified_gmt":"2019-07-22T04:51:16","slug":"tasmota-sonoff-rf-bridge-rf-chipefm8bb1-with-portic-firmware-flashing-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/tasmota-sonoff-rf-bridge-rf-chipefm8bb1-with-portic-firmware-flashing-2\/","title":{"rendered":"HowTo: Tasmota \u2013 Flash Sonoff RF Bridge RF-Chip(EFM8BB1) with Portisch firmware"},"content":{"rendered":"

Thanks to the very universal Tasmota firmware (Flash Sonoff 433Mhz Rf Bridge with Tasmota firmware<\/strong><\/em><\/a>) you can send and receive pretty much any 433Mhz signal using the Sonoff RF Bridge. However, this only works for 433Mhz signals whose radio protocol is recognized by the firmware of the EFM8BB1 processor. This means that with the standard firmware you will only receive radio data that has already been interpreted by the EFM8BB1 processor. Thanks to a firmware update, however, you have the option of reading out the raw radio data.<\/p>\n

What modifications you need to make and what you need to pay attention to are described in this article.<\/p>\n

\n

Safety instructions <\/span><\/h2>\r\n

I know the following notes are always kind of annoying and seem unnecessary. Unfortunately, many people who knew "better" have lost eyes, fingers or other things due to carelessness or injured themselves. Data loss is almost negligible in comparison, but even these can be really annoying. Therefore, please take five minutes to read the safety instructions. Because even the coolest project is not worth injury or other trouble.<\/span>
https:\/\/www.nerdiy.de\/sicherheitshinweise\/<\/span><\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\r\n

Affiliate links\/advertising links<\/h2>\r\n

The links to online shops listed here are so-called affiliate links. If you click on such an affiliate link and make a purchase via this link, Nerdiy.de will receive a commission from the relevant online shop or provider. The price does not change for you. If you make your purchases via these links, you support Nerdiy.de in being able to offer other useful projects in the future. \ud83d\ude42\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

\n

Requirements<\/h2>\n

Helpful articles:
\n<\/strong>Before you start construction, you should have dealt with the basics of soldering. You have to solder cables to contacts. You should also have already flashed your Sonoff RF Bridge with the Tasmota firmware.
\nThe following articles contain information about this:
\nElectronics - My friend the soldering iron<\/a><\/em>
\nSonoff - 433Mhz Rf Bridge with Tasmota firmware flashing<\/a><\/em>
\nBasics of navigating in Windows Explorer<\/a><\/em>
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

Required material:<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the following list you will find all the parts you need to implement this article.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n <\/colgroup>\n <\/table>\n \n \n \n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Required tool:<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the following list you will find the tools you need to implement this article.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n
\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n <\/colgroup>\n <\/table>\n \n \n \n<\/div>\n\n
\n

Cutting the data lines that are not required<\/h2>\n

The data lines of the EFM8BB1 (RF chip), which you have to connect to the ESP8266 with this mod, are by default connected to the data lines of the micro USB port through which the RF bridge is normally supplied with power.<\/p>\n

The manufacturer probably has a special adapter that allows you to program the EFM8BB1 in this way - but for us this function is useless and in this case even a hindrance. This means that you cannot supply the RF bridge with power via the micro USB port and program the EFM8BB1 at the same time.<\/p>\n

In order to make this possible, the connections from the EFM8BB1 to the micro USB port will be severed in this section.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Take the RF bridge board out of the housing \u2013 as you did during the original flashing process of the ESP8266\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and turns it over.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Now you need a cutter knife (or other sharp knife - a scalpel is also very suitable)\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and cut so that the two data lines can be seen as shown in the photo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Close-up of the severed data lines.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Connecting the data line of the EFM8BB1 to the ESP8266<\/h2>\n

In order to connect the contacts of the ESp8266 to the data lines of the EFM8BB1, you first have to prepare two lines that are approximately three cm long.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, strip the ends and tin them with a little solder.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
These are then used as shown to connect the contacts shown.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Close-up of the connection between the data line of the EFM8BB1 and the contacts of the ESP8266.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Before commissioning, you should now follow the tips from the article Eektronik - Commissioning of a new circuit<\/a><\/strong><\/em> note.<\/p>\n

\n

\u00a0Tasmota firmware preparation<\/h2>\n

In order for the Tasmota firmware to be able to flash the EFM8BB1, you must activate the following option in the Tasmota firmware.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
To do this, open the Tasmota firmware in the Arduino IDE and scroll to the highlighted line in the \"user_config.h\" tab.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Remove the \"\/\/\" in front of the \"#define USE_RF_FLASH\" and activate the desired function. You must then program your RF bridge again with the changed settings. How to do this is described in the article Sonoff \u2013 Flash 433Mhz RF Bridge with Tasmota Firmware<\/a><\/strong><\/em> described.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Installing the new firmware on the EFM8BB1<\/h2>\n

With the modified hardware, you can now easily change the firmware of the EFM8BB1 from the usual Tasmota configuration page of the RF bridge.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
It is important that you set GPIO pins 4 and 5 to \"00 None\" under \"Settings\" and \"Configure device\". This is usually the default setting. So if you have not deliberately changed anything, you do not need to worry about this. GPIO pins 4 and 5 must not be used because they are used by the Tasmota firmware to program the EFM8BB1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
To start installing the firmware on the EFM8BB1, switch to \"Firmware Upgrade\" from the main menu of the Tasmota configuration page.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Then click on \"Browse\"...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and select the firmware to be flashed via the Explorer as usual. You will find this in the folder that also contains the Tasmota firmware. To do this, switch to the \"Tools\" folder...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...then \"fw_efm8bb1\u2033...<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and select the latest available firmware files there.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
After clicking on \"Open\", you will return to the configuration page. There you then click on \"Start upgrade\".<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The upload then takes approx. 30 seconds\u2026<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
...and is confirmed with an \"Upload successful\" message.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The new firmware then initially behaves like the old firmware. The difference is that the new firmware can also be switched to raw mode.<\/p>\n

I will explain what it is all about and how to use it in another article.<\/p>\n

\n

Have fun with the project<\/h2>\r\n

I hope everything worked as described for you. If not or you have questions or suggestions please let me know in the comments. I will then add this to the article if necessary.
Ideas for new projects are always welcome. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\r\n

PS Many of these projects - especially the hardware projects - cost a lot of time and money. Of course I do this because I enjoy it, but if you think it's cool that I share the information with you, I would be happy about a small donation to the coffee fund. \ud83d\ude42<\/strong><\/p>\r\n

\"Buy<\/a>\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \"\"<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Thanks to the very universal Tasmota firmware (Sonoff 433Mhz Rf Bridge with Tasmota firmware flashing) you can send and receive pretty much any 433Mhz signal using the Sonoff RF Bridge. 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Dabei hat er nur eine Taste\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-mini-taster-einbinden-20190205-173205.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-mini-taster-einbinden-20190205-173205.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-mini-taster-einbinden-20190205-173205.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-mini-taster-einbinden-20190205-173205.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":2447,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/build-your-own-opensource-smarthome-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":3480,"position":3},"title":"Build your own OpenSource SmartHome","author":"Fab","date":"28. February 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Ich muss zugeben ich habe noch nicht die perfekte L\u00f6sung gefunden um alle SmartHome-relevanten Artikel \u00fcbersichtlich aufzulisten. Um bis dahin zumindest etwas \u00dcbersicht in die verf\u00fcgbaren SmartHome-Artikel zu bringen kommt hier die folgende Liste mit allen aktuell verf\u00fcgbaren und teilweise geplanten Artikeln. :) Allgemein\/Diverses NodeRed \u2013 Installation von NodeRed auf\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/www.nerdiy.de-firefox-2019-03-07-21-44-54.png?fit=1200%2C616&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3877,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/integrate-nodered-433mhz-window-contact-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":3480,"position":4},"title":"HowTo: Node Red \u2013 Integrate 433Mhz window contact","author":"Fab","date":"23. February 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"In dem Artikel \u00fcber den 433Mhz Mini-Taster hatte ich bereits von meinen Streifz\u00fcgen durch die Wunder der elektronischen Produktwelt berichtet. Dabei ist mir nicht nur der 433Mhz Funkwandtaster, 433Mhz Mini-Taster und 433Mhz SOS-Taster aufgefallen, sondern auch ein 433Mhz Fensterkontakt. Mit diesem \u00fcberwache ich jetzt seit mehreren Monaten erfolgreich den Status\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-fensterkontakt-einbinden-20181124-181735.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-fensterkontakt-einbinden-20181124-181735.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-fensterkontakt-einbinden-20181124-181735.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-fensterkontakt-einbinden-20181124-181735.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":3887,"url":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/integrate-nodered-433mhz-radio-wall-button-2\/","url_meta":{"origin":3480,"position":5},"title":"HowTo: Node Red \u2013 Integrate 433Mhz wireless wall button","author":"Fab","date":"28. February 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"Ein weiterer praktischer Fund w\u00e4hrend meiner Streifz\u00fcgen durch die elektronische Produktwelt ist der 433Mhz Funk-Wandtaster. Dieser l\u00e4sst sich mithilfe der RF-Bridge leicht in NodeRed oder jedes andere SmartHome-System integrieren. Wie dies geht und was Ihr dabei beachten m\u00fcsst ist im folgenden Artikel erkl\u00e4rt. Voraussetzungen Hilfreiche Artikel: Damit Ihr diese Konfiguration\u2026","rel":"","context":"In "Abendprojekt(<2h)"","block_context":{"text":"Abendprojekt(<2h)","link":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/category\/evening-project2h\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-funkwandtaster-einbinden-20190205-135233.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-funkwandtaster-einbinden-20190205-135233.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-funkwandtaster-einbinden-20190205-135233.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/nerdiy.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/www.nerdiy.de-nodered-433mhz-funkwandtaster-einbinden-20190205-135233.jpg?fit=900%2C1200&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x"},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3480","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3480"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3480\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3573"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3480"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3480"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nerdiy.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3480"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}