The main axis is the axis in which the wind turbine will later rotate. It therefore has to support the weight of the blades including the hub and at the same time absorb the forces caused by the wind. Last but not least, it should rotate smoothly.
A critical task and in my opinion one of the most important components.
I have also written down some additional information here: https://hackaday.io/project/172328/log/179713-why-i-think-a-new-main-shaft-mount-is-needed
In the following article you will find instructions for setting up the main axis holder.
Safety instructions
I know the following notes are always kind of annoying and seem unnecessary. Unfortunately, many people who knew "better" have lost eyes, fingers or other things due to carelessness or injured themselves. Data loss is almost negligible in comparison, but even these can be really annoying. Therefore, please take five minutes to read the safety instructions. Because even the coolest project is not worth injury or other trouble.
https://www.nerdiy.de/sicherheitshinweise/
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Requirements
Required tool:
Hot glue gun |
3D Printer |
Allen wrench |
Tongs |
Cordless drill |
3mm drill bit |
Tweezers |
Required material:
In the following list you will find all the parts you need to implement this article.
1x | basePlateMainShaft |
1x | mainShaftBearingMountBaseConnector |
2x | mainShaftBearingMountBearingClamp |
1x | mainShaftBearingMount |
1x | shaftCoupler |
2x | Aluminum profile 14.5cm long |
2x | 6008ZZ ball bearings |
12x | M3x50 countersunk screws |
8x | M3x16 countersunk screws |
6x | M3x20 countersunk screws |
Collect required parts
Before you can start building the main axis, you must of course first have all the necessary parts together. You can find a complete list of the materials and tools required above in the materials and tools list
In this picture you can see all the components needed to build the main axis.
You can find the required STL files for printing here: https://github.com/Nerdiyde/WinDIY/tree/master/mainAxis
I printed the parts with the following settings.
- Perimeter: 5
- Infill: 50%
The screws should preferably be made of stainless steel so that they do not rust due to moisture.
Install ball bearings in the main axle base
The base of the main axis consists of one part. The two ball bearings are inserted into this and clamped.
For this part of the main axle assembly you will need the main axle base, two 6008ZZ ball bearings, four M3x20 screws and four M3 nuts.
Now insert the first of the two 6008ZZ ball bearings into the main axle base as shown.
Make sure that the ball bearing sits in the holder as far as it will go.
The ball bearing should sit exactly in the middle of the holder.
Other view.
Now also place the second 6008ZZ ball bearing in the still free holder of the main axis holder.
Now check again that both ball bearings are seated fully and centered in the main axis holder.
Other view.
Other view.
To secure the ball bearing in the main axle holder, you should now insert the first ball bearing clamp into the main axle holder as shown and...
…secure with one of the M3x20 countersunk screws.
In order to secure the screw you should secure the screw with an M3 nut.
Of course, repeat this for the other side of the ball bearing clamp.
Other view.
Other view.
In the same way you should now secure the other ball bearing with the ball bearing clamp in the main axle holder.
Connect the main axis base with the base connector
The main axis base is connected to the base plate using the base connector. To do this, the main axis base is first connected to the base connector.
For this you need the parts shown.
- The prepared main axis mount
- the 3D printed base connector
- two 14.5cm long pieces of the 10x10mm aluminum profile
- six M3x50 countersunk screws
- six M3x20 countersunk screws
- twelve M3 nuts
Now insert the first of the two aluminum profiles as shown...
... into the main axis holder as far as it will go.
Now use a 3mm drill to drill through the hole intended for the screw into the aluminum profile.
Important: Make sure that you only drill through the outside of the aluminum profile. More about this in the next picture.
Repeat the same for the other screw hole.
If you pull out the aluminum profile again it should look something like this.
As can be seen here, the aluminum profile should only be drilled on one side.
To attach the aluminum profile to the main axis bracket, you now need two M3x20 countersunk screws and two M3 nuts.
Now place the first of the two M3 nuts in the recess on the inside of the guide for the aluminum profile as shown.
Close view of the inserted M3 nut.
Now screw the M3x20 countersunk screw into the nut as shown.
Other view.
Now repeat this for the other screw position.
The two screws should now hang in the guide for the aluminum profile as shown.
Close-up view.
Now pull back the screw including the nut so that the nut completely disappears into the appropriate recess. Now you can insert the aluminum profile and as soon as the holes in the aluminum profile are congruent with the screws, you can screw the screws into the holes in the aluminum profile.
Now screw the screws further into the aluminum profile until the aluminum profile is clamped in the holder by the screws.
Other view.
Now repeat this again for the other aluminum profile
Both aluminum profiles should now be firmly...
... be jammed in the main axis holder.
Now insert the two aluminum profiles into the 3D printed base connector as shown.
Other view.
Push the base connector onto the main axle bracket as far as it will go.
Top view.
Side view.
Now drill through the screw hole into the aluminum profile as before.
Important: Make sure that you only drill through the outside of the aluminum profile. More about this in the next picture.
Of course, repeat the same for the other side too.
Now rely on both again...
...insert an M3x20 countersunk screw on each side and screw each one together with an M3 nut.
View of the base connector including inserted screws.
Now pull the screw back together with the nut so that the nut disappears completely into the appropriate recess. Now you can push the base connector back onto the two aluminum profiles of the main axis bracket.
View of the attached base connector and the main axis bracket.
The screws you just prepared will be tightened in a later step.
For additional fastening you now need six of the M3x50 countersunk screws and six M3 nuts.
Slide the first of the M3x50 countersunk screws through the base connector into the main axle bracket.
To do this, you should insert an M3 nut into the recess shown in the main axis holder.
This should sit in such a way that it can be screwed with the previously inserted M3x50 countersunk screw.
Repeat this with another screw in the directly adjacent screw hole.
Secure this screw again with an M3 nut.
Both screws should now be secured with an M3 nut each.
Now repeat this with the other two screws on the other side of the main axis bracket.
Other view.
View of the two countersunk screws on the left side.
View of the two countersunk screws on the right.
You can now use the remaining two M3x50 countersunk screws to connect the base connector on the underside in the same way.
To do this, push the screw through the base connector into the main axle bracket as shown…
...and screws it again with an M3 nut that you put on the underside of the main axis bracket...
...inserted into the designated assembly locations.
This should then look something like this.
Of course, repeat the whole thing for the opposite side as well.
Now you can screw in the previously prepared screws to screw the aluminum profiles into the base connector.
Connect the main axle bracket to the base plate
The next step is to connect the prepared main axis holder (including base connector) to the base plate.
To do this you need:
- of course the prepared main axis mount
- the 3D printed base plate
- four M3x50 countersunk screws
- four M3x20 countersunk screws
- eight M3 nuts
Now first position two M3 nuts in the recesses in the base plate as shown.
Close-up view of the inserted M3 nuts in the base plate.
Now position the main axis holder in front of the base connector as shown and insert the...
...both parts together as shown.
Now you can screw the base connector to the base plate using the first M3x20 countersunk screw.
To do this, insert the M3x20 screw through the screw hole shown and...
... screw it on the underside with an M3 nut.
Now repeat this with the remaining M3x20 countersunk screws.
Also screw these with M3 nuts to the underside of the base plate.
Now you need the remaining M3x50 countersunk screws.
Now insert this into the base plate through the – still free – screw holes in the base connector…
...and screws it again with M3 nuts on the underside of the base plate.
Prepare connection with the pivot bearing
In the last step, the base plate is prepared for the later connection to the pivot bearing.
To do this you need:
- the prepared main axis holder including all attached components
- four M3x25 countersunk screws
- five M3 nuts
- the 3D printed connection plate
Now prepare the connecting plate by inserting three M3 nuts - as shown - into the base plate.
Close-up view of the inserted M3 nuts in the connecting plate.
Now things get a little complicated for a moment. The connecting plate must now be placed on the base plate in such a way that the previously inserted M3 nuts are enclosed between the connecting plate and the base plate.
These will be needed later to connect the upper bracket of the turret to the connecting plate.
Thanks to the M3x50 screws that were previously visible from the connection between the base connector and the base plate, the connection plate is now in the correct position.
The connecting plate should definitely rest on the base plate as shown.
Now you can screw the first two M3x25 countersunk screws through the connecting plate with the M3 nuts previously inserted in the base plate.
Repeat this on the opposite side with the other two M3x25 countersunk screws.
This is what it should look like when viewed from below.
The last two M3x25 screws must be screwed onto the top of the base plate again with an M3 nut each.
That was a lot of different M3 screws and nuts.
If everything went well, your main axis mount should now look like this.
Another view of the assembled main axis bracket.
Another view of the assembled main axis bracket.
Have fun with the project
I hope everything worked as described for you. If not or you have questions or suggestions please let me know in the comments. I will then add this to the article if necessary.
Ideas for new projects are always welcome. 🙂
PS Many of these projects - especially the hardware projects - cost a lot of time and money. Of course I do this because I enjoy it, but if you think it's cool that I share the information with you, I would be happy about a small donation to the coffee fund. 🙂