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Nerdiy.de – Nerdy DIY HowTo's über Elektronik, 3D-Druck und mehr.

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Schlagwort: rotary

HowTo: ESPEasy – Drehencoder an den ESP8266 anschließen und auswerten

Veröffentlicht am 27. Januar 2021 von Fab

Gerade wenn die eigene Schaltung ein Display zur Anzeige von Werten besitzt ist der nächste Schritt of auch eine Bedienmöglichkeit anzuschließen. Dabei kann man Taster oder auch Schalter anschließen. Eine […]

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🇬🇧 At the moment I spend a large part of my

🇬🇧 At the moment I spend a large part of my free time in various CAD programs to prepare the new upcoming projects. (That's why it's a bit quieter here) Nevertheless, I always need a few small "excursions" into the non-virtual world in between. 🙂 A result of the last few days is this 7.5 "ePaper display, which I had been lying on my desk for a while. I always wanted to use it to display the data from my SmartHome. At first I thought that I will code my own firmware for the #ESP32. In the end I found a cool project with which the content can be shown very easily on the display. I will soon provide information on this as a tutorial on Nerdiy.de. In order to be able to set up or hang up the display reasonably protected I also started to design a suitable housing. All components that are necessary for operation can be installed in it. You can see the first test print in the pictures. 🙂 ⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇬🇧 After I was able to fix a small error in

🇬🇧 After I was able to fix a small error in the programming circuit, the test of the LED matrix was still pending. For this I soldered the LED matrix of 100 SK6812 3535 LEDs on another board and then connected it to the board on which the ESP32 Wrover is soldered via a connector. Later everything will be installed on one circuit board. 🙃 I have already tested the remaining components on a separate PCB. With the next iteration, the pxlBlck_multiPCB should (hopefully) be error-free. 🙂⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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🇩🇪 Nachdem ich einen kleinen Fehler in der Programmierschaltung beheben konnte stand nun noch der Test der LED Matrix aus. Dazu habe ich auf einer weiteren Platine die LED Matrix aus 100 SK6812 3535 LEDs verlötet und dann über ein Steckverbinder mit der Platine verbunden auf der der ESP32 Wrover verlötet ist. Später wird dann alles auf einer Platine verbaut. 🙃 Die übrigen Komponenten habe ich bereits auf einem separaren PCB getestet. Mit der nächsten Iteration sollte das pxlBlck_multiPCB also (hoffentlich) Fehlerfrei sein. 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 For the further development of #WinDIY, I

🇬🇧 For the further development of #WinDIY, I am currently testing various mechanisms for controlling the wings. The rather complex mechanics of the first version should now be a bit more compact, lighter and at the same time more reliable. For this purpose I built a small worm gear with a gear ratio of 1:40. Driven by a gear motor, it should be possible to adjust the angle of attack of the blades by at least 90° in less than a second. At the same time, the worm gear locks the wing in its set position. At least that’s the plan. Unfortunately, with such small gears you slowly reach the limits of the FDM printing technology. That's why I have to see if this mechanism really works reliably enough. 🙂

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🇩🇪 Für die Weiterentwivklung von #WinDIY teste ich gerade verschiedene Mechaniken zur Ansteuerung der Flügel. Die ziemlich komplexe Mechanik der ersten Version soll nun etwas kompakter, leichter und gleichzeitig zuverlässiger werden. Dazu habe ich ein kleines Schneckengetriebe mit einem Übersetzungsverhältnis von 1:40 aufgebaut. Angetrieben von einem Getriebemotor sollte sich der Anstellwinkel der Flügel so in weniger als einer Sekunde um mindestens 90° verdrehen lassen. Gleichzeitig arretiert das Schneckengetriebe den Flügel in seiner eingestellten Position. Soweit der Plan. Leider stößt man bei so kleinen Zahnrädern so langsam an die Grenzen des FDM Drucks. Deswegen muss ich mal gucken ob diese Mechanik wirklich zuverlässig genug funktioniert. 🙂

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🇬🇧 For one of my secret projects, I need a 3

🇬🇧 For one of my secret projects, I need a 3D printed part that is unfortunately too big for my 3D printer. With a width of 270mm, it unfortunately does not fit on the print bed of my Ender5. Conveniently, @PCBWay now also has a prototype service that can also be used to order 3D printable parts. You can choose between different materials and printing technologies. Among other things, parts made of metals such as aluminum can also be manufactured in this way. That's exactly what I tried out. The result is visible on the pictures. The component is of course much more stable than if it were printed from plastic. In addition, looks much more "worthy" than components made of plastic. I can already imagine some areas of application. For example, you could also print heat sinks or parts that require greater strength than plastic. Do you have any other ideas what could be made with it? 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 The last few days it has been a little qu

🇬🇧 The last few days it has been a little quieter here because I was drowning in work. But this also lead to the first success in one of my secret projects. You can see the result in the picture. I have long been enthusiastic about the possibilities of magnetic levitation. This allows objects to float in the air using a magnetic field. All that is needed is a couple of magnets and one to four coils of an electromagnet. These can then be regulated so that magnetic objects can "stand" on the resulting magnetic field. But what works on a small scale must also work on a large scale. That's why I scaled up the typical structure a bit. The aim was to be able to hover or lift larger objects. With the current structure, objects up to approx. 100kg can be lifted and held at a certain height. With appropriately prepared socks (including metal inserts), you can stand on the resulting magnetic field and float on it. I am curious what is still possible with it. For example, I could imagine this technology as an alternative to the classic car jack. What other areas of application can you imagine? 🙂

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🇬🇧 Today I installed the pressure sensor for

🇬🇧 Today I installed the pressure sensor for the second tip of my #pcknplc machine. It struck me that the silicone hose, which is not very dimensionally stable, is about to kink at this bending radius and thus pinch itself off. To prevent this from happening, I wrapped both silicone hoses with an untwisted tension spring. This way the hoses are supported but still flexible enough to be connected to the pressure sensors. The pressure sensors are mounted on an adapter board from which the signals are then passed on to the controller board. 🙃⁣
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🇩🇪 Heute habe ich den Drucksensor für die zweite Spitze meiner #pcknplc Maschine montiert. Dabei ist mir aufgefallen, dass der recht wenig Formstabile Silikonschlauch bei diesem Biegeradius kurz davor ist abzuknicken und sich damit selbst abzuklemmen. Um dies zu verhindern habe ich beide Silikonschläuche mit einer aufgedrehten Zugfeder umwickelt. So werden die Schläuche gestützt bleiben aber trotzdem biegsam genug um sie an den Drucksensoren anzuschließen. Die Drucksensoren sind auf einem Adapterboard montiert von welchem die Signale dann an das Controllerboard weitergeleitet werden. 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 When I designed the adapter board for the

🇬🇧 When I designed the adapter board for the XGZP6847 pressure sensors, I integrated two options to evaluate the analog voltages of the pressure sensors. With the help of a solder jumper, you can choose whether the signals from the sensors are routed directly to the connector or to an ADS1115 I2C ADC soldered to the adapter board. In the latter case, the I2C bus is routed to the contacts of the connector. You can choose whether you want to evaluate the sensor signals analog or digital (via I2C). So that I can now also test the readout with the aid of the ADS1115, I have set up the circuit board shown including the ADS1115. 🙂 The PCB is made by @pcbway 😍

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🇩🇪 Als ich das Adapter Board für die XGZP6847 Drucksensoren erstellt habe, habe ich zwei Optionen integriert um die analogen Spannungen der Drucksensoren auszuwerten. Mithilfe eines Lötjumpers kann man auswählen ob die Signale der Sensoren direkt auf den Anschlussstecker geleitet werden, oder zu einem auf dem Adapterbaord verlöteten ADS1115 I2C ADC. Im letzten Fall wird der I2C Bus auf die Leitungen des Anschlussstecker gelegt. Man hat also die Auswahlmöglichkeit ob man die Sensorsignale analog oder digital (über I2C) auswerten möchte. Damit ich das auslesen mithilfe des ADS1115 nun auch testen kann, habe ich die gezeigte Platine inkl. ADS1115 aufgebaut. 🙂

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🇬🇧 One of the somewhat delayed results of th

🇬🇧 One of the somewhat delayed results of the #solderingsunday: I finally got around to finish the controller of the #servoDigit clock again. The remaining parts were soldered. Including the pin headers for up to 32 SG90 servos. Actually only 28 (seven per digit) are needed to operate the four digits, but 16 PWM outputs are available per PCA9685 and it was no problem to accommodate the remaining four connections on the PCB. 🙃 Now programming and testing is on the to-do list. 🙂⁣
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🇩🇪 Eins der etwas verspäteten Ergebnisse des #solderingsunday : Endlich kam ich dazu mal wieder an dem Controller der #servoDigit Uhr weiter zu bauen. Die restlichen Teile wurden verlötet. Darunter auch die Pinheader für bis zu 32 SG90 Servos. Zum Betrieb der vier Ziffern werden eigentlich nur 28 (sieben pro Ziffer) benötigt, aber pro PCA9685 stehen 16 PWM Ausgänge zur Verfügung und es war kein Problem auch die übrigen vier Anschlüsse auf dem PCB unter zu bringen. 🙃 Nun steht das programmieren und testen auf der ToDo Liste. 🙂⁣
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🇬🇧 Here you can see the modifications of the

🇬🇧 Here you can see the modifications of the Z-axis of my #pcknplc machine. I had the problem that the Z-axis stepper motor did not have enough power to pick up the tips (see previous posts) and snap them into the holder. After I swapped the stepper motor, turned the driver up to the maximum possible current and even changed the Rs resistance on the driver, I was a bit lost. Ultimately, however, I was able to increase the strength by exchanging the 20 tooth motor pulley for a 12 tooth pulley. I also swapped the tension spring for tensioning the toothed belt with a 3D printed tensioner. So I was able to remove the resilient element from the belt. 🙂 The combination of both changes has now resulted in the Z-axis motor having enough power to pick the tips. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Hier seht Ihr die Modifikationen an der Z-Achse meine #pcknplc Maschine. Ich hatte nämlich das Problem, dass der Z-Achsen Schrittmotor nicht genug Kraft hatte um die Spitzen aufzunehmen (siehe vorherige Posts) und in die Halterung einrasten zu lassen. Nachdem ich den Schrittmotor getauscht, den Treiber auf den maximal möglichen Strom aufgedreht und dazu sogar extra den Rs Widerstand auf dem Treiber geändert hatte war ich etwas ratlos. Letztlich konnte ich die Kraft aber erhöhen indem ich zum einen das 20 Zahn Motorpulley gegen ein 12 Zahn Pulley getauscht habe. Außerdem habe ich die Spannfeder zum Spannen des Zahnriemens gegen einen 3D gedruckten Spanner getauscht. So konnte ich das federnde Element aus dem Riemen entfernen. 🙂 Die Kombination aus beiden Änderungen hat nun bewirkt, dass der Z-Achsen Motor genug Kraft hat um die Spitzen aufzunehmen. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 I wasn't in the mood the last days to wor

🇬🇧 I wasn't in the mood the last days to work on the #pcknplc machine but decided to work on the automatic tip changing today. These can be changed by defining four positions. As soon as a change is necessary, these are approached one after the other and the this way the desired tip is mounted on the pick head. 🙃 This way, the machine can change the appropriate tip depending on the component size and then pick up the component it should place on thr PCB. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Nachdem ich die letzten Tag etwas weniger Lust hatte an der #pcknplc Maschine zu arbeiten, habe ich mich heute mal etwas mit dem automatischen wechsel der Tips beschäftigt. Diese können gewechselt werden indem vier Positionen definiert werden. Sobald ein Wechsel nötig ist werden diese nacheinander angefahren und so die gewünschte Tip aufgenommen. 🙃 So kann die Maschine je nach Bauteilgröße die passende Tip wechseln und dann das Bauteil aufnehmen. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 For one of the secret projects I'm curren

🇬🇧 For one of the secret projects I'm currently working on, some really tricky solder joints had to be made. You are immediately pleased that you do not normally have to connect SMD components with wire bridges. 😂 So for the project there will be two ways to get complete it: One way involves a lot of fiddly soldering points. The other is a PCB on which all components are already installed. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Für eins der geheimen Projekte an dem ich gerade arbeite mussten ein paar wirklich kniffelige Lötverbindungen hergestellt werden. Da freut man sich direkt, dass man SMD Komponenten normalerweise nicht per Drahtbrücken verbinden muss. 😂 Für das Projekt wird es also zwei Wege zum Ziel geben: Der eine Weg beinhaltet ziemlich viele fummelige Lötstellen. Der andere ein PCB auf der bereits alle Komponenten vorhanden sind. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 The view of the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp from

🇬🇧 The view of the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp from above. You can see the 32 SK6812 LEDs and the two rotary encoders. The axis of the two rotary encoder is extended with two attachments so that the pencil can rotate the rotary encoder from the outside. Color and brightness can then be adjusted via this. 🙃

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🇩🇪 Die Ansicht der pxlBlck_CassetteLamp von oben. Zu sehen sind die 32 SK6812 LEDs und die zwei Drehencoder. Die Achse der Drehencoder wird mit zwei Aufsätzen verlängert, sodass der Bleistift von außen die Drehencoder drehen kann. Darüber lassen sich dann Farbe und Helligkeit einstellen. 🙃

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#Nerdiy.de #Nerdiy #Nerdy #pxlBlck_CassetteLamp #threadedinsert #smarthome #DIY #3dprinting #soldering #cassette #doityourself #electronics #tech #technology #engineering #3dprinter #maker #arduino #esp8266 #esp #project #solderingiron #makerlife #science #led #electricalengineering #iot #espeasy #pxlBlck

🇬🇧 This section of the pxlBlck_multiPCB is l

🇬🇧 This section of the pxlBlck_multiPCB is literally self-explaining. 😂 A large part of the new functionality is now running. I was very curious about the MAX98357 I2S Class D amplifier. This is connected to the ESP32 via I2S. MP3s can be played from the inserted micro SD card, web radio can be streamed or text can be read aloud. The goal is that the pxlBlcks will soon also be able to play audio data. For example, you could be informed acoustically about events in the SmartHome. Alternatively, you could also play a web radio stream in this way. 🙃⁣ The PCB is made by @pcbway. 😍
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🇩🇪 Dieser Abschnitt des pxlBlck_multiPCB erklärt sich buchstäblich von selbst. 😂 Mittlerweile läuft ein Großteil der neuen Funktionalität. Sehr neugierig war ich auf den MAX98357 I2S Class D Verstärker. Dieser ist über I2S mit dem ESP32 verbunden. So lassen sich MP3s von der eingelegten micro SD Karte abspielen, Webradio streamen oder eben auch Text vorlesen. Ziel ist es, dass die pxlBlcks demnächst auch Audio Daten wiedergeben können. So ließe könnte man sich zum Beispiel auch akustisch über Ereignisse im SmartHome informieren lassen. Alternativ könnte man so aber auch einen Webradio stream abspielen. 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 In the last few days I have finished the

🇬🇧 In the last few days I have finished the article for the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp. This lamp is a little homage to the time when music was not on a 512GB micro SD card but in the form of audio cassettes. I thought it was a shame to let the cassettes gather dust in a box in the basement and made a small decorative lamp out of them. With the help of a few # WS2812 LEDs, an ESP8266 and an old USB power supply unit, the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp can be built. With the help of the #pxlBlck plug-in, the lamp also gets a few SmartHome functions and can thus also inform about events in your SmartHome. In addition to the setting options via WiFi, the lamp can also be adjusted with the help of a pen - just as the cassette tape salad used to be wound up. You can find the build instructions including a list of needed materials and detailed pictures on my blog at Nerdiy.de. 🙃

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🇬🇧 I recently found this little guy on Aliex

🇬🇧 I recently found this little guy on Aliexpress. It is a small adapter board with which the own circuit can be supplied with the typical USB Power Delivery voltages without much effort. The board can be ordered / configured in different configurations so that 5, 9, 12, 15 or 20V can be requested from the connected USB PD power supply. This makes it relatively easy to upgrade existing devices with a USB-C connection. I have planned to convert my old Keyboard, which is normally supplied with 12V via a barrel connector, to USB-C. So I can simply use my laptop power supply or my power bank with USB-C PD to operate the keyboard. 🙃 I'm already looking forward to the day when almost all devices can be operated via USB-C PD. That should make life easier and avoid a lot electronic waste at the same time. 😍⁣
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🇬🇧 (... Continuation of my previous posts) T

🇬🇧 (... Continuation of my previous posts) The problem when you solder two resistors on top of each other: They will need more space in the height. Usually not a problem. In the case of the A4988, it is. Because then the heat sink can no longer be glued flat onto the housing of the A4988. So the resistors had to be separated again and soldered together next to each other. 😬⁣
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🇩🇪 (...Fortsetzung meiner vorherigen posts) Das Problem, wenn man zwei Widerstände aufeinander lötet: Die brauchen dann auch mehr Platz in der Höhe. Normalerweise kein Problem. Im Fall des A4988 aber schon. Denn so kann der Kühlkörper nicht mehr plan auf das Gehäuse des A4988 aufgeklebt werden. Also mussten die Widerstände wieder getrennt und nebeneinander zusammengelötet werden. 😬 ⁣
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🇬🇧 Today I did the first small tests of the

🇬🇧 Today I did the first small tests of the pxlBlck_multiPCB. To do this, I soldered the main components and a few of the secondary components. For example, in addition to the ESP32 Wrover-B, the Micro SD card slot, an RTC and the ADXL345 acceleration sensor are also soldered. 🙃 The board is supposed to be the centerpiece of a couple of new and old pxlBlck platforms. 😎⁣
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🇩🇪 Heute habe ich die ersten kleinen Tests des pxlBlck_multiPCB durchgeführt. Dazu habe ich die Hauptkomponenten und ein paar der Nebenkomponenten verlötet. Zum Beispiel ist neben dem ESP32 Wrover-B auch der Micro SD Kartenslot, eine RTC und der ADXL345 Beschleunigungssensor verlötet. 🙃 Die Platine soll das Herzstück ein paar neuer und alter pxlBlck Plattformen werden. 😎⁣
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🇬🇧 (... Continuation of my previous post) So

🇬🇧 (... Continuation of my previous post) So the stepper motor still didn't have enough torque. No problem, I thought, a little more motor current should fix this. So I turned the potentiometer for setting the motor current on the A4988 stepper motor driver to the maximum position. The reference voltage "Vref" is set with this potentiometer. In combination with the resistor "Rs" built into the stepper motor driver (and the now set reference voltage Vref = 0.8V), the following motor current results according to the data sheet of the driver: Imtr = Vref / (8 * Rs) At this point I also noticed that the value 0.1Ohm was installed on the stepper motor for the "Rs" resistor. Sufficient for most stepper motors. Unfortunately I wanted to run my newly installed stepper motor with its maximum current of 1.7A. With this "Rs" value, however, a maximum of only 1A can be set. In order to extend the setting range for the motor current up to 2A, for example, the value for Rs must decrease to 0.05Ohm. Usually not a problem. Unfortunately I didn't have the 0402 SMD resistor there. But: I had an old defective motor driver with the same values. So if I were to unsolder the Rs from the defective motor driver and solder it in parallel to the Rs in the intact motor driver, the total resistance of the two Rs connected in parallel would have to reduce to 0.05Ohm. That's the plan. You can see the conversion in the video. And why that should still not lead me to my goal, you will see in the next post. 🙂 ⁣
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🇬🇧 (... continuation of my previous post) Be

🇬🇧 (... continuation of my previous post) Because the previously installed Nema17-style stepper motor 42SHD0034-20B is a good ten mm shorter and accordingly lighter. But it only has a (detent) torque of 12mNm and a holding torque of 0.3Nm. The somewhat larger / heavier 17HS4417 stepper motor, on the other hand, has the torques 22mNm or 0.4Nm. So almost 50% or 33% more moment. On the paper it actually sounds like I should be able to solve my problem that way. So quickly swapped the stepper motors and tried them out ... Nothing. The motor didn't really seem more powerful. You will find out how it went on in the next post... 🤓⁣
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🇩🇪 (...Fortsetzung meines vorherigen posts) Denn der zuvor verbaute Nema17-Style Schrittmotor 42SHD0034-20B ist zwar gut zehn mm kurzer und dementsprechend leichter. Dafür hat er aber auch nur einen (Rast-)Moment von 12mNm und einen Haltemoment von 0.3Nm. Der etwas größere/schwerere 17HS4417 Schrittmotor hat dagegen die Momente 22mNm bzw. 0.4Nm. Also fast 50% bzw 33% mehr Moment. Klingt auf dem Papier tatsächlich so als hätte ich so mein Problem lösen können. Also schnell die Schrittmotoren getauscht und ausprobiert... Fehlanzeige. Er schien nicht wirklich Kraftvoller zu sein. Wie es weiterging erfahrt Ihr im nächsten Post... 🤓⁣
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🇬🇧 Do you know those evenings when almost ev

🇬🇧 Do you know those evenings when almost everything goes wrong until you are about to bite into your soldering iron? If not, then get ready for my little summary of my collected failures from last night. 😂 It all started with the fact that I wanted to configure the automatic tip change on my #pcknplc machine and discovered that the force/torque of the Z-axis stepper motor was not enough to allow the holder to click into the tip. (See video) At first I thought "no problem". I had deliberately installed a somewhat weaker and therefore lighter Z-Axis stepper motor. So I wanted to keep the inertia of the moving parts of the X-axis low. So I could no longer meet this goal, but decided to install a more powerful stepper motor for the Z-axis. In the next post you can read how it went on... 🙃⁣
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🇩🇪 Kennt Ihr diese Abende in denen fast alles schief geht bis ihr irgendwann kurz davor seid in Euren Lötkolben zu beißen? Falls nicht, dann macht Euch bereit für meine kleine Zusammenfassung meiner gesammelten Fails von gestern Abend. 😂 Alles fing damit an, dass ich den automatischen Tip wechsel meiner #pcknplc Maschine konfigurieren wollte und dabei festgestellt habe, dass die Kraft des Z-Achsen Schrittmotors nicht ausreichte um die Aufnahme in die Spitze einrasten zu lassen. (Siehe Video) Erst dachte ich "Kein Problem". Ich hatte nämlich bewusst einen etwas schwächeren und damit auch leichteren Schrittmotor als Z-Achsen-Motor verbaut. So wollte ich die Massenträgheit der bewegten Teile der X-Achse gering halten. Dieses Ziel konnte ich also nicht mehr einhalten aber wollte dann trotzdem einen stärkeren Schrittmotor für die Z-Achse einbauen. Wie es weiter ging lest Ihr im nächsten Post... 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 The M12×0.5 thread cutters have arrived.

🇬🇧 The M12×0.5 thread cutters have arrived. 🙃 Now I was able to cut the thread in the 3D printed mount for the camera lens. Since I want to use a lens with a larger focal length for my #pcknplc machine, I also needed a lens mount that allows the distance between the lens and the camera sensor to be increased. So the lens mount had to be longer. The cheapest (and preferred by me anyway) option was to print it yourself. But I didn't trust my 3D printer to print the M12x0.5 thread directly. That's why I printed the recording with the core hole size and cut the thread into it later. 🙃⁣
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🇩🇪 Die M12×0.5 Gewindeschneider sind gekommen. 🙃 Nun konnte ich das Gewinde in die 3D gedruckte Aufnahme für das Kameraobjektiv schneiden. Da ich für meine #pcknplc Maschine ein Objektiv mit größerer Brennweite verwenden möchte brauchte ich auch eine Objektivaufnahme die es ermöglicht die Distanz zwischen Objektiv und Kamerasensor zu vergrößern. Die Objektivaufnahme musste also länger werden. Die günstigste (und von mir sowieso vorgezogene) Variante war da das selber drucken. Nur habe ich meinem 3D Drucker nicht zugetraut das M12x0.5 Gewinde direkt zu drucken. Deswegen habe ich die Aufnahme mit dem Kernlochmaß gedruckt und das Gewinde später hineingeschnitten. 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 The last delivery from @pcbway also conta

🇬🇧 The last delivery from @pcbway also contained an adapter board for the pressure sensor that I want to use in my #pcknplc machine. In this way, two sensors can be connected and the voltages output by the sensor can be passed on to the controller board relatively cleanly. For testing purposes, I initially only connected one sensor. Since the diameter of the pressure hose did not quite match the diameter of the sensor, I simply replaced the last piece with a silicone hose. This is much more flexible and can be tightened on the sensor with a cable tie. The only problem here could be that the flexible silicone hose is pulled together as the pressure continues to drop and thus pinches itself. Hopefully the first tests will show that. 😎

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🇩🇪 Die letzte Lieferung von @pcbway enthielt auch eine Adapterplatine für den Drucksensor den ich in meiner #pcknplc Maschine verwenden möchte. So lassen sich zwei Sensoren anschließen und die vom Sensor ausgegeben Spannungen relativ sauber an das Controllerboard weiterreichen. Zum Testen habe ich zunächst nur einen Sensor angeschlossen. Da der Durchmesser des Druckschlauchs nicht ganz zum Druchmesser des Sensors passte habe ich das letzte Stück einfach durch einen Silikonschlauch ersetzt. Dieser ist wesentlich flexibler und lässt sich auf dem Sensor mit einem Kabelbinder fest ziehen. Das einzige Problem könnte hier sein, dass der flexible Silikonschlauch bei weiter sinkendem Druck zusammengezogen wird und sich so selbst abklemmt. Das werden die ersten Tests hoffentlich zeigen. 😎

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🇬🇧 I had already mentioned in a previous pos

🇬🇧 I had already mentioned in a previous post that I wanted to make the field of view of the camera of my #pcknplc machine for component recognition a little smaller by installing a camera lens with a higher focal length. Because this would also show the components in the camera image larger and the detection should run better. In principle, the replacement of the lens corresponds to an "optical zoom". Unfortunately, depending on the distance to the object on which the lens is to be focused, the lens must also have a suitable distance from the camera sensor. When setting this distance, I then unfortunately noticed that the lens mount of the camera module is not high enough or the mounting thread is not long enough. I could only set a sharp image by either increasing the distance of the object to be focused on or increasing the distance between the lens and the camera sensor. Since the distance to the object on which I want to focus (the equipment table) is fixed, the only option left is to move the lens further away from the camera sensor. Long story short: To get the picture sharp under these circumstances, I have to hold the lens a little in front of the lens mount. Unfortunately, the lens can no longer be screwed into the mount this way. To solve the problem I printed a suitable lens mount (thanks 3D printer 😍) Now I'm waiting for the M12x0.5 thread cutter to cut a suitable thread into the holder. Then the new lens should also focus correctly. 🙃 All in all, it turns out that choosing the correct camera, including the distance, is not as easy as I initially thought. On the other hand, I also learned a lot from these little fails. 🙃⁣
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🇬🇧 Three new PCB projects knocked on my door

🇬🇧 Three new PCB projects knocked on my door yesterday. 😍 Among them is the first four-layer circuit board that @pcbway made for me: The pxlBlck_multiPCB. A 10x10 matrix of WS2812 3.5x3.5mm LEDs can be mounted on the underside. On the other side there is space for an ESP32 Wrover B, a USB-C connection including a USB-serial converter, an SD card slot, an I2S DAC including a Class D amplifier, an MPR121 touch controller, a BME280 climate sensor and also a QWIIC connection which can also be used to connect I2C sensors and actuators from @sparkfun and @adafruit . I'm looking forward to the first test. Otherwise, the third (real) version of the nanoPxl was waiting for me in the box from @pcbway. A few small improvements regarding the connection pins have been implemented in it. I also had this delivered as a panel. Possibly. this will be the first candidate for automatic assembly using the #pcknplc machine. 🙃 This is exactly what the third circuit board is for: This is the more professional version of my vacuum sensor adapter. 🙃⁣
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(... Continuation of my previous post) So the stepper motor still didn't have enough torque. No problem, I thought, a little more motor current should fix this. So I turned the potentiometer for setting the motor current on the A4988 stepper motor driver to the maximum position. The reference voltage "Vref" is set with this potentiometer. In combination with the resistor "Rs" built into the stepper motor driver (and the now set reference voltage Vref = 0.8V), the following motor current results according to the data sheet of the driver: Imtr = Vref / (8 * Rs) At this point I also noticed that the value 0.1Ohm was installed on the stepper motor for the "Rs" resistor. Sufficient for most stepper motors. Unfortunately I wanted to run my newly installed stepper motor with its maximum current of 1.7A. With this "Rs" value, however, a maximum of only 1A can be set. In order to extend the setting range for the motor current up to 2A, for example, the value for Rs must decrease to 0.05Ohm. Usually not a problem. Unfortunately I didn't have the 0402 SMD resistor there. But: I had an old defective motor driver with the same values. So if I were to unsolder the Rs from the defective motor driver and solder it in parallel to the Rs in the intact motor driver, the total resistance of the two Rs connected in parallel would have to reduce to 0.05Ohm. That's the plan. You can see the conversion in the video. And why that should still not lead me to my goal, you will see in the next post. 🙂 ⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de on Instagram

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Reducing the Rs resistor on the A4988 stepper driver

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_goC266XXRc0

This section of the pxlBlck_multiPCB is literally self-explaining. 😂 A large part of the new functionality is now running. I was very curious about the MAX98357 I2S Class D amplifier. This is connected to the ESP32 via I2S. MP3s can be played from the inserted micro SD card, web radio can be streamed or text can be read aloud. The goal is that the pxlBlcks will soon also be able to play audio data. For example, you could be informed acoustically about events in the SmartHome. Alternatively, you could also play a web radio stream in this way. 🙃⁣ The PCB is made by @pcbway. 😍
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Test of the MAX98357 on the pxlBlck_multiPCB - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_JmERTyVB5D0

Complete build guide available here: https://nerdiy.de/en/howto-pxlblck-pxlblck_cassettelamp-aufbauen/

In the last few days I have finished the article for the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp. This lamp is a little homage to the time when music was not on a 512GB micro SD card but in the form of audio cassettes. I thought it was a shame to let the cassettes gather dust in a box in the basement and made a small decorative lamp out of them. With the help of a few # WS2812 LEDs, an ESP8266 and an old USB power supply unit, the pxlBlck_CassetteLamp can be built. With the help of the #pxlBlck plug-in, the lamp also gets a few SmartHome functions and can thus also inform about events in your SmartHome. In addition to the setting options via WiFi, the lamp can also be adjusted with the help of a pen - just as the cassette tape salad used to be wound up. You can find the build instructions including a list of needed materials and detailed pictures on my blog at Nerdiy.de. 🙃

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pxlBlck_CassetteLamp by Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_7clz58zdGsM

Here is a short summary of the structure of the bracket for the new controller board of my #pcknplc machine. The board is mounted on the base plate using a 3D printed bracket, official_ruthex threaded inserts and a few screws. 🙃

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Assemby of 3D printed mount frame for BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLl9zXzBtX2VabWxZ

In the meantime I have finished the holder for the tips of the #pcknplc machine. There is space for up to eight tips. Each individual tip is pulled into the correct end position by a small magnet. I've tried different versions and especially experimented with the distance between the magnets and the tips. There should be enough force on the tips to pull them into the correct position. At the same time, they should not be magnetized too much. In this way, I want to avoid that the potentially magnetized tips will attract components when they are not supposed to. 🙃 The holder is required later - depending on the component size - to automatically attach the correct tip to the pick head. 🙃⁣
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Nozzle holder for my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLjRSZllhZ2tjVTlR

It doesn't look like much, but it was quite a bit of work. 😂 The controller boards I have used so far are all based on the Marlin firmware. The controller board of my #pcknplc machine is based on the smoothieware. The latter uses a completely different concept for configuration. A couple of timing belts have suffered a bit, but now it's moving. 😍 🙃

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Pick and place machine first moves - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLkc1WHl3bFpnbXZz

In the last few days I fixed a few bugs in the #pxlBlck plugin. Now the TV simulator dial is working properly. This simulates the typical flickering of a television and can be activated, for example, when nobody is at home. With a little distance, the resulting flickering looks from the outside, viewed through a window, as if someone inside is watching TV. I implemented a code from @adafruit in such a way that it also runs in a "non blocking way" on the ESP. The color information comes from the "Color lines" of Disney films. 🙃⁣
In addition to this change, the RGBW handling has also been improved. Now RGBW Leds aka SK6812 are supported properly. Therefore the color menu has also been revised a bit. In addition, you can now switch between a twelve- and 24-hour mode for some dials. I hope you like the new features. 🙃⁣
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pxlBlck plugin now comes with a TV simulator - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_n69maIjxk08

Maybe you know those walls that don't hold any dowels. At least not if it has to hold more than its own weight in the wall. So I didn't want to drill new holes in the wall to hang up my new workbench lamp. Practically, a shelf hung exactly where the lamp should hang, which is secured in the wall with concrete anchors and should also bear the additional weight of the lamp. But since I didn't want to damage the shelf either, I designed a clamp bracket and 3D printed it. Held together by threaded inserts and four M4 screws, the bracket can be clamped onto the shelf and the lamp hooked into it. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
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3D printed mount for my workbench light - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_DkclWbqamZk

Assembling the camera unit including LED ring for my #pcknplc machine. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de⁣ on instagram
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Assembly of the camera module for my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_1tj51nKDxeo

Short preview of the assembly of the #pxlBlck_10x10mini. I changed the design of the case so that it is easy to assemble and is held together with just one M2 screw threaded insert. Due to the higher resolution, even more clock faces can be shown on this display than on the pxlBlck_8x8. Scrolling texts, icons and the familiar animations also work on the display, of course. 🙃⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de on instagram

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First preview of the pxlBlck_10x10mini - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_vh39xZxRFnk

It doesn't look like much, but it was quite a bit of work. 😂 The controller boards I have used so far are all based on the Marlin firmware. The controller board of my #pcknplc machine is based on the smoothieware. The latter uses a completely different concept for configuration. A couple of timing belts have suffered a bit, but now it's moving. 😍 🙃

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de

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First movements of my pick and place machine - Nerdiy.de

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLjNvR2hrc3VHdXUw

So, how long do I have to run #deFume (that's how I named my air extraction system) to filter the air in my 3D printer chamber? Therefore I did a small (highly scientific) test. On the video you can see my anemometer which is positioned exactly in the air flow of the air intake. Assuming the flow velocity is the same over the entire opening area and the additional flow resistance caused by the anemometer is ignored, it is relatively easy to calculate the volume of transported air. At level one there is a flow speed of 4.5 km/h, for level 2: 14.5 km/h and for level 3 (maximum): 21 km/h. These are converted to 1.25 m/s, 4 m/s and ~ 6 m/s. With a diameter of the passage of 115mm and the simplifications defined above, this results in a transported air volume of 0.0130m³/s, 0.0415m³/s and 0.0623m³/s at the respective performance levels. The chamber in which my 3D printer is located has a volume of 0.2925m³. So #deFume needs 22.5, 7 or 4.7 seconds at the respective power levels to filter the entire volume of air in the 3D printer chamber. The entire volume of extracted air is sucked through an activecarbon mat and a H13 filter. This should be able to clean both the air from my 3D printer chamber and any soldering fumes that arise while working. 🙃 So no more constantly open windows during winter! 😍⁣
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You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓⁣
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de⁣ on instagram
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deFume - Air extraction power measurement of my solder fume extraction system using an anemometer

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_s6oQYlbOcIM

I needed a CAN bus connection cable for one of my current projects. These should be twisted as evenly as possible over the entire length of the line so that signal interference has an identical effect on both lines. Twisting the cables by hand is laborious. It's easier and much faster with the cordless screwdriver. 😎

You can find more information and detailed instructions for my projects on NerDIY.de 🤓
If you like what I'm doing follow me on @Nerdiy.de

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Drilled cables the DIY way

YouTube Video VVViempwN2RDMlRmWkY4alhrUGpFZ0hBLjZWVmRyMlZ4LXg0

The size of the old nanoPixel version (25x20mm) bothered me a bit. In addition, the LEDs were very far apart. That made it a bit more difficult to mix the colors. By changing to a slightly smaller dual mosfet and making a few changes in the design, I was able to reduce the board size to the dimensions of 17x17mm and also move the LEDs closer together. 🙃⁣

More infos about the nanoPxl here: https://nerdiy.de/en/howto-elektronik-nanopxl-v1-1-smd-komponenten-verloeten/

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nanoPxl V1.3 improvements

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_8Vjr722YVQE

As a small training session for the WS2812 LEDs (aka #Neopixel) in the size 2x2mm, I have already trained how this works with the WS2812 LEDs in the size 3.5x3.5mm. 😎 This time I applied the solder paste with a homemade stencil. (More on that soon). From the "big" WS2812 I was used to a bit of grief, because they like to break during the soldering process. But with the little brother everything worked directly. There will soon be more to see for the first function test. 🙃

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pxlBlck - Manual pick and place of the WS2812 3.5x3.5mm LEDs on a 10x10 Matrix PCB

YouTube Video UCbzjp7dC2TfZF8jXkPjEgHA_ak-fpIBU8U0

Mehr laden… Abonnieren

Neuste Beiträge

HowTo: pxlBlck – pxlBlck_CassetteLamp aufbauen
HowTo: ESPEasy – APDS-9960 Gestensensor an den ESP8266 / ESP32 anschließen und auslesen
HowTo: 3D Druck – Y-Verteiler für einen 125mm Abluftschlauch bauen
News: PCB-Entwicklung – I2C_mtrDrvr V1.0, servoDigitCtrlr, pxlBlck_multiPCB, XGZP6847_adapter und nanoPxl V1.4
HowTo: ESPEasy – ESPEasy – Zugangspasswort einrichten, Konfigurationen sichern und wiederherstellen

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Letzte Kommentare

Fab bei HowTo: ESPEasy – Füllstandssensor mit VL53L0X / VL53L1X
Fab bei HowTo: ESP8266 – mit dem „Esptool“ .bin-Dateien unter Windows flashen
Jürgen bei HowTo: ESP8266 – mit dem „Esptool“ .bin-Dateien unter Windows flashen
Erwin bei HowTo: ESPEasy – Füllstandssensor mit VL53L0X / VL53L1X
Fab bei HowTo: pxlBlck – pxlBlck_8x8 aufbauen

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